What your vehicle brakes can tell you
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This is what happens when your brakes dont work right
Find out what your brakes are telling you
If you drive, you may know that after times your brakes may make a noise, feel weird, or just make you think "uh...what was that?" Well here is some useful information on what your brakes may be telling you.
First lets learn how brakes work. Brakes work by converting friction into stopping power. You push on the brakes, the brake fluid goes through the brake lines and push the brake calipers to push the brake pads onto your rotors or drums and causes them to stop. It's just like running something between your hands, if you hold it loose or not at all, it moves feely, but the more pressure you put on it, the more it slows down and eventually stops. So thats how brakes work.
Now that you know how they work, lets talk about what happens if there is a problem with your brakes. If you have a leak of fluid in your braking system then air gets into your brake system and cause the brakes to feel mushy because air can be compressed unlike fluid. It's what Bernoulli was talking about when he was saying how fluid can move things by applying pressure to it because it doesn't loose any force. So if you have air in the system then the brakes won't apply the the same pressure your foot does. Also if your brake pads don't have enough material then they will take longer to respond beceause it takes a longer time for the pads to hit the rotor or drum. So thats what happens if there is a problem.
So now its time to talk about what your brakes tell you when something is wrong. Often times brakes make noises to tell you whats wrong, here are the noises and what they usually mean.
-Grinding or scratching is often times meaning that all the brake material is gone and now the metal plate that holds the pad is rubbing against the rotor. This is very bad because now you have no braking material and the two pieces of metal rubbing against eachother can melt and cause your brakes to stick. You now have to pay for new brake pads and rotors/drums because the damage to them can't be repaired. To avoid this you should replaced your brakes when the material is 3mm or lower on pads. and 1mm on shoes.
-Loud screeching or high pitch noises often times mean that your rotors are glazed. Glazing is caused by excessive braking and the rotors get too hot and become burned. You can tell this has happened because the rotors will have a dark ring or blue marks on them. To fix this the best thing to do is create a new rotor surface by machining your rotors at a local shop. This creates a new surface and the noise should go away. To avoid this happening at all don't go really fast and then slam on the brakes. This causes a lot of friction which turns to heat and causes the burn on the rotor. It can also cause the rotors to warp which can lead to vibrations.
-Vibration while braking often times means your rotors or drums have been warped. This is caused by heat making them loose their shape. If your rotors or drums are too thin they will warp and need to be replaced. But if it's just because they got too hot and warped then all that needs to be done is that they need to be resurfaced by a local shop. To know whether or not the vibration is coming from the front or back you can drive down the freeway and push the brakes until you feel the vibration, if you feel the vibration in the steering while then its the front because it's transfering through the front wheels into the steering into the steering wheel. If you want to check the back then you can apply the parking brake while driving slightly and you will feel the vibration in the car and not just the steering wheel.
-Brake Pull is when your vehicle pulls to one direction when you brake. This can be caused by your brake caliper not applying the brakes evenly with the other usually as a result of a fluid leak in the caliper. To know which side it is, you'll just have to look at the brake caliper and see which one is leaking, this usually should be done by a professional. To fix this you will have to replace the caliper and bleed the brakes of all the air in the system. There is no real cause for this besides just normal wear.
So there are the most common problems with brakes besides normal wear. So next time your driving and you hit the brakes and they start talking to you, you'll have a better idea of what the problem is. Be sure to consult a professional before trying anything yourself because if done incorrectly, you might cause an accident which will result in injury or death.
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I have been involved in mechanical systems a long time and you've aptly described and illustrated the brake system. You have a very good hub. If you get a chance, give my hub a looking over, it's at http://hubpages.com/hub/mechanicstoolstore. thanks.
I was wanting to know why my brakes have air in them and go almost to the floor. I was told it could be a leak in the brake line or the master cycliner. I just wanted to know for sure.
There could be a leak in your break system, maybe a bad line or a seal is bad. If you want, open your hood at look at the master cylinder which will be somewhere on top, usually against the firewall (the wall between the engine and the steering wheel) on the opposite side of the steering wheel. Its a container with fluid that should have a level indicator on it. Anyways, look at that and see if you see any fluid or anything that looks wet. Usually those leak, if not, then if you have rear drums for your rear brakes the rear wheel cylinders could be leaking which you should have a professional look at those. If you have had any brake work done where something was replaced besides the pads or shoes then they should have bled the air out of the system. If you are comfortable with working on cars i could tell you how to bleed the brakes but only if you are comfortable because if you do it wrong you could be worse off then you are now.
My brakes make a squeeking noise. I bought the car brand new & now have 28K miles on it. Dealer says I need to change the rear pads, and the fronts r fine. This is a 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5S.
My questions is how would the rear brakes go bad first, and the front ones seem OK? I thought it is always the opposit.
yeah that doesnt make sense at all. Your front brakes should always wear quicker unless you have a lot of weight in the back or you are driving in reverse on the highways which i bet is highly unlikely. Ask them to get you measurements on them and also if they are pads or drum brakes. Squeeking can come from glazing which is caused by hard braking, it makes them kinda shine with blue and isn't really unsafe, just annoying. You can usually buff it out or just turn the rotors. Also if you drove with your parking brake on then i could see them telling you they are bad. Get more info and then get back to me.
Ok so I hit about 10-15k miles since my last pad and rotor change. I put on Brembo Rotors (nothing special..just plain) and some cheap brake pads (silly me)...and now when i accelerate to about 10-20mph I can hear schreeching...I instantly knew it had to be the brakes but I read around and see that the metal shims(you know the shims built in to give noise telling you your pads need to be changed) are heard only when you brake. Is this true? Because right now I hear the metal shim sound when I don't even apply the brakes
yeah, the metal indicator shouldnt be hitting your rotor while driving unless it grabbed or something one time. There are other metal pieces that sometimes can fall out of place and rub, take a look at your brakes even with the wheel on to see if you can see any large grooves or anything that might indicate metal grabbing. If you're hearing a noice without braking then something is out of place and/or there is something else wrong besides your brakes.
Alright thanks a lot...I'm going in to my friend's shop for a free alignment/rotating tommorow...I'll take a better look then...hopefully nothing will be too out of shape to fix...thanks a lot for the tip YoJDawg.
About three weeks to a month ago my mechanic told me I needed break pads put on my back wheels. The work was done, and about two weeks later there was a lot of squealing at a very high pitch coming from the back right wheel. Veeery annoying. I told the mechanic about the noise, and he told me to bring it back in. I was told that there was dirt that was cleaned out, but if the squealing continued I may need a new drum. After reading your comment about screeching and high pitch noises, I'm thinking I may need the rotors resurfaced. Please tell me what the possibilities are.
well you either have drums or rotors in the back. Not both, anyways, the if it is drums cleaning can help and if it doesn't go away i'd have them resurface the drums. If you have rotors in the back have them resurfaced and it should stop the noise. Ask them what the problem is, dont let them tell you what "NEEDS" to be done. Be aware though that resurfacing drums and rotors too much will lead to having them replaced, its just normal wear. Hope this helps, also the noise can come from braking to hard causing too much heat and burning the rotors.
Well I had the choice to go rotate/align my tires tommorow but tonight I managed to drive around a bit hoping the sound will somehow just stop (thinking maybe some debris just got caught in between the rotor and pads)...after about a half hour of driving...the sound stopped...I parked the car and just ate dinner and watched a movie...then came back out to drive around once again (just to see if heat could play a role in this noise) but it made no sound. My dad told me that a while back in his '91 beamer he had that same exact problem...said he brought it to the shop and they just cleaned out his brakes for him and that got the problem solved...so whoever has the same problem as I did...try cleaning your brakes prior to any replacing done...thanks for all the info YoJDawg...did help stop my panicking at the moment (just got done with a big tune-up on my mom's car and that was already a big chunk out my wallet...)
is it normal for your brakes to get really hot?
brakes will get hot, very hot if you are driving a lot and fast, its not really that normal for breakes to turn red though. So if you see your brake parts getting red then something is probably stuck in the on position. But besides that, yes brakes will get hot, its friction, that how it stops.
I have a 2005 Envoy and when I go to brake the car seems to bounce from front to back like the car is jumping. What can cause this? Do you think it is a warped rotor? Thanks
My 2003 Honda accord just started making tinny, metal sounds, as if I'm draggin a metal strip. It stops making sounds when I press my brakes. Why do you think this is happening?
I have a 2003 Dodge Neon, and the front brake pads were just replaced a week ago. But whenever I started the car, I can hear the high pitched noise when I press the brake pedal. It's hard to tell whether the sound is from the front wheel or the rear wheel. There is one time when I made a sharp right turn, something fell in my trunk. There was high pitched noise clearly from the real wheel. After driving for a while, it is much better. I can barely hear the noise when the car is braked. Could you please give me some ideas? Thank you very much!
The noise in the drunk could be something in the trunk, maybe even the spare tire not held down all the way. If you're hearing noises from the back and you think something is rattling in there then you should have it looked at beacuse usually that means your parking brake components are messed up. High pitch noises also can mean though just a lot of brake dust in the rear drums. Take it to a shop that does free brake inspections would be my suggestion. You don't have anything to lose unless something is really wrong.
My 1998 Ford Explorer makes a slight grinding and sqeaking noise. I have had my breaks checked twice since then. They say everyhting looks fine. My mechanic said that the noise is normal. He also said that thry now use ceramic brake pads because they have had trouble with people complaining about the regular brake pads making that noise. Is this true?
I just had my my tires rotated and front brakes replaced (rotors and pads) on a 2004 Sorento, 41k miles. The day I picked up my car, the car began making a clunking, metallic sound on the right side of the car (can't tell if it's front or back), which became progressively worse as I drove it. This happens while driving, NOT while braking, and the sound pulsates with each tire rotation. I took it back immediately, and they "readjusted" the brakes, test drove it, and claimed they didn't hear anything. But on my way home again, after five minutes, the same sound returned. It ends up being so loud that people down the block can hear me coming. The neighborhood mechanic thinks the Kia dealer may have bent something, resulting in metal grinding. My father, however, thinks that there's a rogue piece of metal floating around or the Kia emblem in the center of the tire is loose and clanging around. Any ideas? Either way, I'm not happy about having to take it back to the dealer for ANOTHER round of work that may or may not solve the problem. :)
Thanks in advance for any advice. I've been searching high and low for folks who have experienced the same problems (and, of course, for someone who can provide some answers!). Thanks so much for offering us this forum!
I drive a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Lately I've been noticing a squealing noise coming from the front brakes while braking. The noise isnt very consistent though, occuring every few times I brake. I had my front rotors and pads replaced 5 months ago but havent had any problems since. Im pretty sure this isnt a major problem but before I take my car into the shop, can you give me some ideas on what the problem could be. Thanks
Jennifer- The Noise sometimes can b e normal, but if you really dont like it then i would ask them how muh they charge to resurface your rotors and go from there. Rotors get glazed from heat and cause noise seomtimes.
Kpenote- I suggest you going to your shop and having them go on a road test with you to confirm the noise. If they go with you, you can point it out and then they have to take care of it.
Justin- Probably the same problem as jennifer, ask how much for resurface of rotors because they are probably glazed. That is one of the most common things.
I have a 04 malibu with 68000 miles and I had rotors and ceramic brakes put on the car 6 weeks ago and when I got the car from the shop they told me that the brakes were not setting in right to take it easy on them. Well I noticed squealing and I was told that happens sometimes and the squealing turned into grinding and I took it back to the shop and they said the brake pads were gone and the cause was both calipers were bad they were sticking. What is the odds that both calipers go bad at the same time and so soon after having new rotor and pads put on? shouldn't they have noticed that when they put them on?
I just got done changing pads with mounting hardware and rotors all around my 95 Probe. Now i have a constant friction on the rotors. After driving 3 miles with very light braking, my rotors are hot to touch. Not hot enough to make me scream when i touch them but they are so hot that I cant keep my fingers on them for more than 2 seconds. I loosened the parking brake adjusters on the rear wheels 1/3 of turn but the friction noise is still there and breaks get just as hot. I'm worried my my bearings are going to suffer from the heat. Any idea what the normal operating temp after normal driving should be? There is no smell or smoke coming from the brakes however they are hot to touch even if i drive the car at 15mph for a mile and gently apply the brakes to stop. Could this be normal for new pads and rotors until they are broken in?
I just recently changed my OE rotors and pads to Brembo slotted fronts and rears with Mintex redbox pads for my 1996 VW GTI VR6 and I'm having some braking issues now...
first issue is that I have to press really hard on my brakes for it to slow and stop? worst then my OE rotors and pads that were worn out...what could be the problem?
Second issues is that when i park and use my ebrake...the car still rolls unless I pull the ebrake almost all the way up...how can this be adjusted?
I'm not familiar with brakes and its system...so any info would be appreciated.
thanks
Vicki, they should have noticed any problems on the first time around. You should try to get them to pay for the labor since they werent properly inspected the first time. But if your brakes werent setting right, that should have been fixed immediatly and could have saved any damage down the road.
fpgt, your brakes shouldn't be getting that hot nor should they be contstantly rubbing. I'd recommend making sure those brakes are ok for your probe. I work at a Ford dealer and whenever we do brakes, we'd rather get Ford/Motorcraft parts instead of aftermarket because Ford/Motorcraft really is a lot better. Im not just trying to sell my product but when customers have asked for CarQuest or whatever, we often times have noise problems or whatever because the brakes weren't SPECIFIC for the vehicle unlike the ones you would get at a Ford Dealer.
Kudos, Sometimes when putting no brakes on, they do feel odd at first and a little squishy. I'd make sure everything is working correctly and that everything is lubed properly. To be honest though, OE parts are usually a lot better for your vehicle unless you buy high end parts. I'd really recommend sticking to OE parts because they are made for your vehicle. The parking brake can be adusted very easily if you know how. There is a spindle looking type object in the drums and you just have to spin that usually. I'd recommend taking it to a shop and having them inspect the wear on the shoes and adjusting the parking brake. Most places will do it for free, check for local coupons about free brake inspections.
Yo Dawg,
I put 20in wheels on my 2007 GMC sierra and ever since, when I push the brake, the truck vibrates. I feel it on the steering wheel and on the front console. I took the truck to the dealership and they cut the rotors as they were warped. The problem was still there. I went and put new front brake pads and the problem is still there. We put the back wheels on another 04 gmc sierra truck and the problem is fixed. With 20in wheels in the front and factory wheels in the back, the vibration stopped. What is the problem?
Thanks,
CL
I have a 2003 dodge neon. i just changed the brake pads and the moment i started the car and pressed on the brake, it felt like there was no brakes on it! do i need to bleed it out again?
Hey, the brakes on my renault clio work perfectly but the brake lights do not come on immediately when pressed. They only come on when the brakes are pressed sort of 1/4 of the way in. The brakes still work at this point however. Any ideas? Thanx
My van brake light comes on when I push the brake and goes off when I let off the brake. Could this just be the computer not working well? The brakes seem to be fine. The AB light has gone off and on for over a year. They told us it was okay. The brakes seem to work fine. We do seem to have other lights that sometimes come on and stay on. We have had them checked and they stay on everytime. thanks!
CL, after market wheels and rims will often times make your vehicle ride different and cause vibrations. I'd recommend going back to stock rims and tires. Or have your wheels balanced at a good tire shop. Michellin tires are often times the best tires you can get, they balance good and ride really nice.
Bentot, bleeding the brakes my work but i'd double check your work and after you put brakes on you need to pump the pedal so that the calipers get back to the right position.
Donna, your brake switch is probably bad. There is a little switch right under the brake pedal that when you push it, makes the lights go on, i'd recommend getting that replaced, it will probably fix your problem.
Check your brake fluid level. A lot of times when it gets low and you push on the brakes, it then lowers the fluid level again making the light go on because there is a sensor that will go on when the fluid gets low. Check your master cylinder, should be right at the firewall right behind where your steering wheel would be in the engine compartment. If it IS low, see if you can see any leaks in the master cylinder if there is, that need to be replaced quickly so your brakes work right and you dont run into anything or anyone.
Hi,
Thanks for the great article... just had a quick question for you... when I take my foot off the brake, it makes kind of a "creaking" noise... so I went to the local repair shop and they found that I needed new struts and shocks (fluid was leaking out of the rear shocks) and they also recommended new rotors/pads due to severe warping (which they showed me)... anyways, got all that work done, but I still get that noise when I lift my foot off the brake at low speeds... is that normal?
Thanks so much,
RK
I own a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 S and my rear brakes are gone at 28,000 miles (also purchased brand new). I brought the car in for Service at dealership and asked that they replace the faulty part as the car was still under warranty. Service told me that this was normal for the rear brakes to go at 28,000 / 30,000 miles on a Nissan and that I needed to have both sets of pads and rotors replaced (~$600). This doesn't make sense to me at all. I have never had to replace pads and rotors under ~50,000 miles (Chevy, Honda etc.).
Hey YoJDawg,
Recently got my front brake pads replaced then a week later it made a loud grinding noise then stopped. I didn't think much of it at first but now it feels like the car is harder to brake than before. I have to press on the brakes harder for it to stop. Also, I just noticed that none of the brake lights shine when the brakes are applied. Is this a problem with the brakes themselves or a sensor, or none of the above where you could give a better diagnosis?
Cheers :)
Hey YoJDawg:
Thanks for your notes.
I recently have a problem with my 03 dodge neon. When I press the brake pedal and come to a complete stop, the car will give vibrate during stop. However, there is no vibrating during braking. Do you think it's related to the brake? Thanks so much.
good info hey could you help me my 99 explorer has a sort of crunging noise coming from inside of car when brake pedal is depressed the actual brakes on wheels are fine the master cylinder shows no sign of leaking the car brakes okay the brake pedals not stiff as in a bad booster i just get a suspect crunching noise from down near floorboard when braking
I just took my 2003 Ford Explorer to the shop with a noise every time I hit the brakes on my vehicle. They told me after test driving it there was no noise, but after picking it up I still heard it. They did say the rotors had some rust and suggested possibly getting new rotors? Do you think this is what is causing the sound or is it something else like warped rotors? I'm really confused and I think there is something wrong with my breaks, but don't want to spend $900 on new rotors if I don't have to now.
I have a 2003 Ford Explorer. I had some uneven wear on my rotor on the passenger side. The outside edge wore a groove in the rotor badly. I replaced that rotor and changed out the pads. Bled the lines but i still get a nasty squeak. Sometimes its constant when the wheel is turning sometimes it will only do it when the brakes are applied. The squeaking/grinding WAS only on the passengers side, but now it's on both. I put some of that silicone anti squeak sticky blue stuff on the backside of the pads prior to installing them but it still has the squeak. Any suggestions would be appreciated. By the way, great education on the brake system.
Im getting a lot of wobble and jumping in the right rear when brakes are applied. I just replaced rotors, pads and tires but it still gets jumpy when brakes are applied. Vehicle is a 2002 dodge ram quad. Could air in the brake lines be doing this?It doesnt do it every time. But when it does it.....it does it bad.
could be air in the lines, it would cause it to hesitate in the begining and then would go steady, i'd try bleeding the brake and let me know.
YoJDawg,
Thank you for providing so much great info on the braking system. It has really helped me better understand that part of my car. Here is my issue, if you don't mind taking a swing at it. I own a 99 Infiniti G20 that I bought used in 2002. The front pads and rotors were replaced by Midas in 2004. The rear pads were replaced by Midas in 2006. For the past several months, I have been getting this loud growling/grinding noise coming from the front of the car (I think from the passenger side) when I brake coming to a stoplight or stop sign. It seems to get progressively louder the longer I drive the car. It's gotten to the point that it is embarrassing.
Last week, I had new tires put on by NTB. I asked them if they could check the brakes while they had it in. Afterwards, the techs said the brakes were just fine and they didn't notice any noise during the test drive. Well, the next day, while running errands during my lunch break, the brakes start making that grinding/growling noise again. I can't take it anymore. So I drop it off at the Mida that replaced the rear brakes and explained the noises to them.
Midas just called my this morning to say that my brakes were just fine. The rear pads are basically brand new, and the front pads still have 30% pad left. They did not hear any noises during their test drive.
Am I just hearing things or are these shops not going for a long enough test drive for the noise start happening? I think I'm going to go pick up the G20 at lunch today, drive it around until it starts making those God-awful noises, and then bring it back to Midas and ask them to go on a quick drive with me.
Any idea what my G20's problem may be? Thanks!
Nothing in comes to mind with your vehicle, to me it sounds like you have brake glaze and it only happens after the brakes warm up. Your best bet like you said is to get them warmed up and take it to them while its making the noise and go on a test drive WITH them. I dont think you are crazy so you shouldnt be hearing random noises in your head. There is a noise and you shouldn't take no for an answer. Although i doubt its anything serious besides your rotors may need to be resurfaced. Good luck
i have a 94 honda civic and i cant find what is wrong with it has a new brake booster new brake pads but still lose presser real slow in the brakes when i come to a stop i took it to get checked they said that i need to pull out the pin a little on the booster but still does the same thing still losses brake presser dont know whats wrong with it if any can help thanks
So i have a 05 pontiac grand am. Recently i have had this noise whenever i puch on the brake. It sounds like a grinding nosie. What do you think it may be?
I have a 2006 BMW 325i andrecently hit a sidewalk on my passenger side. I ruined the front bearings and rods that hold my tire, as well as scraping my rims. Since my slight accident, I have had the bearings and rods that are attached to my front tire as well as the alignment done at my dealership. However, it's weird that my trunk gets very hot now after a drive, or if it did get hot prior to the accident, I never noticed it. As well I developed prior to the accident, squeking brakes, but was told my brakes were still good by the dealer? The heat in my trunk has me worried, because I didn't think it should still be hot after it's been parked in my garage for two hours after work?
i know nothing about cars and i just got my breaks fixed, they still squeal after i put pressure on them. my friend said that they squeal for a while after they are fixed. is this true?
AP- The only reason i could see your trunk getting hot is if the rear brakes are getting too hot and then the heat moves up towards your trunk. It's hard to say whats too hot though, your best bet is taking it to a BMW dealer and just having them maybe look what optimal brake heat would be.
Jan- Some brakes do make noise after. But did you get the rotors resurfaced and also did you get GOOD new brake parts. Often times if you don't resurface the brake rotors/drums they may make noise. Low quality parts also will make noise.
i dont know but i will definetly be more caustious next time. thank you very much.
Hi, YoJDawg, I have a 05' Nissan Altima 2.5S, tires have been screaming at me for a few months now. In June I'd taken it to the Nissan dealer to get an oil change and present my problem to them about the brakes. The dealership checked them out and told me I only needed my rotors turned, so I go to Tune and Lube to get my rotors turned they were only charging me $25 per rotor so sounded great! Leave the shop the next day the screaming begins again sounds like the tire is going to fall off. Tune and Lube checks it out for free of course and they tell me I need new calipers which they are charging $500. And commence to tell me that the Nissan shop have alot of apprentices so they can't diagnose the problem correctly (one of the guys used to work there). Do you think that the problem is the calipers? Is that price too high? I just want my car fixed I've only had it 18 months. My car stays parked in the garage for the most part 5 1/2 days out of the week and when I do go anywhere it is within 5-10 miles of the house, so how can I have these problems already?
Thank you in advance for taking the time to review my dilemma.
The problems could very well be the calipers sticking but the chances of that is very unlkely just because both sides rarely do that at the same time. When you got your rotors turned did they replace the pads? If not that could be the problem of it because the rotors are only half of the problem. The pads would be the other half because they can get heat glazed as well as the rotors. 500 bucks sounds about right for replacing calipers, they are expesnive. Being that you have an 05, is it still not covered under factory warrenty? To me it sounds like both shops are "throwing parts" ta the vehicle where they are just saying whatever and hoping it fixes the problem. I'd try going to an alignment shop or something like that which specializes in front end work, they often times have more insite into these things. good luck
J
Hello YoJDawg, your informations on brakes are really helpful. I now know what type of problems my braking system can experience. my problem ocurred while i was driving my 99 civic. While driving, i hit a possom when it ran toward my car. After hitting the possom, i notice that my brake started making a grinding noise when i drive. The grinding noise becomes louder while i'm driving faster and decrease while i press on the brake. I'm not sure if it's coming from the side that i hit the possom with or the other side. I have no clue what is happening there and planning to take it to a mechanic soon. i'm wondering if you could give me your opinion on what happened to my brake. I would appreciate it very much if you have a chance to give me your opinions on what the problem might be. Thank you in advance!
Tire and Lube are including brake pads with the service. Thank you for your insight, I will definitely check with a shop that specializes in front end.
Thank you
When driving at about 20 to 50 miles I hear a thud kind of noise from the front. It's not a screetching noise, but a thud, thud, thud, kind of noise. It also kind of shakes the steering wheel, but that is only when driving on the highway. I just got new tires in the front and the pads are new. It's a Grand Prix with 60,000 miles. What could it be???
Hi Dawg!
I own a 1954 Chevy 210, and haven't gotten around to driving it on a regular basis. I just recently went start the car - only to discover that brakes have completely gone out. The brake pedal hits the floor. There were no symptoms of brake failure the last time I drove it (about 5 weeks ago). Any ideas? Thank you!
I just put new brakes on my F250 Ford Diesel SD. It has 8" lift and 37's. After 3000 miles I started getting brake dust like crazy. What is up.
Thanks
I just finished replacing my front brake pads and rotors myself. After finishing, I noticed that I have to press the pedal down further in order for the brakes to engage with enough force to stop the vehicle, this does not feel normal. I made sure there were no leaks when I did the replacement, and was able to depress the piston without opening the bleeder. Could this mean that the caliper is bad?
I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport, When I'm braking and Im almost to a complete stop I'll sometimes lose Pressure and the brake pedal vibrates and I feel a bit of grinding. It only happens when I am almost stopped. Wht could it be?
Nice info you put together YoJDawg. :)
I think you might consider adding the sound of wear indicator to the list to make it more complete.
Regards, Misha
Hey YoJDawg,
I have a 2004 GMC Envoy that I just put two new front calipers on, and I am now bleeding the brakes with a hand/vacuum pump/bleeder. While switching the brake line from old to new calipers, I know a decent amount of air got in, but I have already used a 32oz bottle of brake fluid and lots of air is still coming out. Do I have to bleed them the old fashioned way with someone on the brake pedal and me working the bleeder valve (it has ABS, and I don't have a manual).
Thank you, Tyler
i think the old fashion way is better, also just double check for no leaks, gl
how come when i am on the freeway or im going over 50mph, i push on my brakes to slow down there is a loud thrumping noise and this onlu happens when im speeding?
Just replaced front pads on 99 expedition. Afterward, the driver side starting making a "kiss" sound at each turn of the wheel. The sound increases in frequency as the vehicle speeds up. I just replaced pads, rotors looked okay. Any ideas?
liz, if you can feel it when you brake probably a rotor problem, warped, flat spot, something.
Jimbo, check the lubrication on your slide pins and make sure everything is in the right spot. Sometimes those metal tabs if you dont replace them can rub against stuff or just be dirty
This is the bet site for information delivered to dummies like me. I have a vehicle that when i hit the breaks vibrates. This site helped me to be intelligent to discuss my issues with my dealership.
Ignornace is no longer an excuse for anything as long as there is the WEB. Thanks to whoever decided to make me and millions of others strong when we thought we were dumb.
Is it difficult to replace the piston cups on the front disk brakes? What kind of tools are needed? My husband replaced the brake pads and now the brakes are leaking fluid. He did not bleed the brakes yet. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much.
i believe they are fairly easy to replace, i've never done it, replacing a caliper is usually easier and better to do. Litle more expensive but its better to have a new part than not and take the risk of messing up. Hope this helps
I have a 97 Ford Mustang V6. I changed all four brake pads but then I encountered a problem with my driver side real wheel.
When I would drive on the freeway I would hear a loud noise as if the pads would rub against the discs.
At first, I thought it was a bad caliper so I replaced both rear calipers at the same time. However, that did not fix the noise.
I jacked my car up to see if I could spot the problem. What I say shocked me! When I would release the parking brake and the brake pedal the driver side rear wheel would spin and suddenly lock up completely! Yet, when I applied the brakes it would begin to spin as if there where no brakes!
I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the differential. Is this true? What should i do?
Thank in advance.
Manny
I have a 2002 Ford F250. When I apply the brakes it pulls hard to the right and the right front wheel has excessive brake dust on it. It is in the shop and they have replaced the pads, rotors, calipers and hoses on the front but it still pulls right. The shop has been unable to diagnose the problem. Please help me with any possible solution. Thanks!
Manny it could very well be a rear end problem but i feel like that is the quick diagnosis for the problem, seems like there could be more to it, or not as much as that needed. Could be a bearing if anything.
Jim, tires and bad alignment can cause pulling while braking because of excess pressure already on one side of the vehicle and when you apply the breaks that excess pressure transfers more into that effected side. Get an alignment check and look over how your tires are wearing.
My tires are wearing evenly and the alignment checked out okay (the repair shop has checked the alignment). I left on piece of the puzzle out, the pulling only occurs once the brakes get warmed up. If I dive in stop and go traffic, the pulling will start. If I drive without traffic, the pulling does not happen.
Hmm, thats an odd one, have they checked the rear brakes? usually that isnt the problem when pulling but you never know, only thing after that would be something hydraulic in the master cylinder or HCU.
Back brakes were changed 10-12k ago. I was thinking it was the master, again excessive brake dust is on the right front wheel. And the shop cannot figure out why it only happens when the brakes heat up. I have spent over $1500.00 already and I don't want to continue to pert swap.What is the HCU?
hydraulic control unit, if you have ABS you have one
The front left brake of my car occasionally creates mild squeaking sound. Is there anyway to elimate the sound and make it perfect? I already took it for repair, but they keep on saying that nothing can be done.
it's very common, i'd recommend using better pads if you havent already tried that, sometimes if they are low quality you will get noise.
Thanks for the info, it has been a great help. I knew most of the indicators and stuff, but this has helped alot!
I just bought a 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse. It only has 42k on it and according to the records it had now pads put on it at approx 30k. When I got it home the front pads were WAY hotter than the rears (Approx 200 in front and 90 in back) is this normal or is it a sign that something is wrong?
Hm, it is normal for front brakes to be warmer than the rear. It depends on your driving conditions. I'd say take your best judgement into mind, if you dont think they should be that hot then have ti looked at. Wrong pads could be sticking or a caliper could be stuck too.
I bought my car last summer and had new front pads and discs put on it. By christmas time it was badly shuddering at the front and into the steering wheel so the pads and discs were replaced again. It was running ok to begin with but has now started badly shuddering again and not braking properly. Ive been told it could be the hubs but I could do with a second opinion? (there is also a pull to the left but i think this may be a slow puncture!!!) The car is a 2001 voltswagen golf.
It could be the hubs, that sounds logical with all the other bad luck you've had. I'd just make sure they are a dependable source to be trusting.
Great Job, YoJDawg. I have strange problem of my own. I have a 2000 Nissan Sentra & While Parked, the front driver's side squeaks when the brake pedal is pressed. It also makes noise as I begin to drive. I have checked the brakes & they aren't worn down & the rotors look ok. What could it be?
sounds like a caliper problem if you arent moving but yet the pistons and pins in the caliper are moving. I recommend if you know how, take the brakes apart and lube up the calipers and clean them out as well. GL
Thanks For The Advice. I'll try it ASAA & let you know if it helped.
I have a 98 dodge neon and i am replacing the front brakes and rotors...what are the tools necessary for the job?
whenI start driving and applied the brake it makes sound ,but after that its oki,this sound at the initial stage of the jouney not throughout the journey ,could you please let me know what cause this.
Thanks
ajd7906 Im not too sure which tools you would need for that vehicle. Probably just a set of wrenches and a sturdy 1/2 inch drive rachet or something to break loose the bracket bolts.
Kanch, brake noise when a vehicle is cold is normal. It just takes time for your vehicle to warm up to its prime operating temperature.
i have 2003 accord. My front brake rotors get really hot, but rears ones get little warm even after doing 160 km on highway and city.
I have a question. I recently replaced my front rotors and pads. After I was done I noticed my pedal was soft, I didn't do anything to allow air into the system. Do you have any ideas?
my f 250 shudders badly when I apply the brakes. I replaced front pads (it seems to be in the front end) could it be wheel bearings, or rotors.
Bill, i've noticed this on most vehicles i have done brakes on. Im not too sure but i believe its from taking everything apart and putting it back together. Everything becomes more smooth instead of there being hard or soft spots which may make it feel sudden. Usually it normalizes after not too long. Just keep an eye out on it.
Larry, sounds mostly like rotors, rotors are like a record, if the record is warped the sound may sound like it has high and low spots. Same thing with brakes, machine the rotors or get new ones. Make sure you replace both if you do.
Thanks for your information. I own a 2005 Honda Civic, I bought it brand new. It has 40K miles on it, and I have never changed the brake pads. Last time the dealer told I should change them. I do not have any problems at all, no sounds, feels the same as new. Based on their report the pads still has 3mm. My daily commute is aroung 40 miles. What should I do? Should I change them immediately, or next service? Thanks!
Dude, I'd recommended getting them replaced in the latest a month. 3mm in't really that much at all and you should take into consideration that the inside of the pads wear the most and are hard to see well so they may have missed something. Being that your car is pretty light and if you dont drive crazy i'd say you can wait a month at the most. Don't go over or you may be looking at more expensive repairs like rotors. Thanks
The information is sound, which has already been said, but I'll repeat it anyway. Worthwhile post.
YoJDawg, I bled my brakes and may have gotten some air out of the system but it was hard to tell. My Explorer has been fine ever since. Thanks for your time. I really appreciate it
If you have to pump the pedal alot while driving to get a firm brake then you did not bleed them correctly or there is a leak somewhere in your brake system. I'd recommend bleeding them again and making sure you aren't getting any bubbles.
I have had my 2004 accord 1 1/2 years when I first got it there was a major vibration --dealer checked it ok, replaced 2 sets of brake pads (worn during 40,000 mile check and 2nd due to squealing), now I have a problem with applying the brake its stiff. I just had pads and fluid redone with complete flushing(?) 2 weeks ago. Now the stiff brakes are starting. Going to Honda again in the am, but is this normal and what is the problem possibly? Thanks!!
Jenny, the brakes feeling stiff could be a result of changing the pads. You will have better and quicker response and wont need to push down so far to apply the brakes. This could feel as though they are stiff just ebough you may be used to worn down brakes. let me know how it goes.
I own a 1995 Toyota 4Runner - recently when I back up it sounds like birds singing...only when I back up. The sound comes and goes. I took it Toyota and was told that I need to have my back brakes cleaned and adjusted ASAP because this could cause a problem with my front brakes - put strain on them - if I don't. How often should back brakes be cleaned, is this urgent and what is the impact to the front brakes? Thank you.
Sometimes noise is normal but first i would isolate if its from the back or front then have them inspected, cleaned, and lubed, most likely its just needs some cleaning, i've seen this problem alot and usually its from the back because when you are going in reverse that is where most of the braking will go as well.
Hello, I just purchased a 2002 GMC Envoy and everything was fine until I started to hear a loud screeching noise. I think it is coming from the front left tire but I am not completely sure. When I took it to the dealer they said that the rotors and brakes were good. They replaced some disc that they said was touching the rotor and that it should have fixed the problem, but it didn't. It was quiet for a minute and then it went right back to the loud screeching noise everytime the car moves. It is ridiculous and I am sick of going to the dealer, but I would like to be a little more informed the next time I go. They claim that they did not hear the noise but when I pulled up one of them did. If you could tell me what the problem may be and what I could possibly suggest for them to do, I would appreciate it. I am not sure what to look for so I feel like they are basically telling me anything just to fix the problem for a minute.
I would ask them how much life is left on your brakes and rotors. If there isnt much left i'd replace them both. If they are still good have them resurface your rotors and your pads. Changing your pads to factory pads would probably help too because they are better quality if you have aftermarket pads on there. Sometime at my work if they use cheaper quality pads they will start to make noise and glaze the rotors causing a noise. Also, it is common and somewhat normal for brakes to have noise when cold.
Hi, i have a problem with my chevy corsica 96 and my mechanic doesn't know what could be causing it. We just got a tune-up and after that my car shakes and today the brakes got so hard and the wheel as well. I didn't know what to do, i lost total control of the car. Thanks God the car stop by itself. And i came back home driving my car. Help me i don't know what's wrong...
My sister has a van Roadtrekker and her brakes causes vibration and the van to shake when braking. I noticed when we were going on a 2 hr trip that it happens only at the end of the trip, so I told her maybe it is when the brakes get hot. She has had it in to the dealer, because it is only 1 year old, if even that, but they keep telling her that there is nothing wrong. Is her rotor warped, from her heavy foot? And should she have to have them resurfaced? Can you tell I have been searching online......and I seem to be right........I just don't know if she should have the rotors resurfaced. Can you help us? What should she do? It seems dangerous, because we were in the mountains on steep hills. Thanks!
back brake left side no fluid coming out [bled already] was told paportion valve but cant find it at auto store
I changed the rear brakes on my 2005 Nissan sentra 1.8s and now I have no brake lights at all. What could it be, I have checked the fuse under the steering wheel and so far I'm stuck. Help please
Vibrations usually come from warped brake rotors.
Joe--It could be a valve, pinched line, or something blocking it. Try following the line back looking for any damage. If you don't find any damage start disconnecting the lines as you go up and see where it stops coming out of. Once you find out where it stops at you know where to look.
Henry--Changing the brakes should have no effect on your actual brake lights. Did you check the bulbs themselves to see if they are burned out? If they aren't you may have a bad brake switch which is usually located on the back of the brake pedal.
Great hub on brakes. I always try to drive smoothly to avoid using the brakes too much and that makes my brake pads duration much longer. BTW, your youtube video it´s no longer available :(
i have a 91 ford exploder ha ha when i press on the brake the front end shake alot i put new brakes and roters on and also brought my roters to a shop to make shure that they were good and not worped and the car still shakes like crazy ? is can the calipers make my POS shake like that. forgot to say that it is only rear wheel drive and it only ha rear ABS brakes which i have pulled the fuse so there not active right now. the brake peddle it self does pulsate when i step on it and my tie rode are not loose ether
It could be your clipers yes. If everything else is fine your calipers may be not engaging correctly.
hi yoJDawg i just fond your page its grate . and i am sure you can help i got a jeep liberty 2002 and when i am drive on highway and hit the brake my steering wheel whould vibrate.and pull on one side. can you please shed some lite. thnks.
Shameer, it sounds like you need new rotors. When rotors are warped they spin unevenly and will cause the brakes to pulse as they hit the uneven surface. Replace your rotors.
i have a 2005 honda civic with 85,000 original miles. i have a squeeking sound when letting off of the breaks, (rear drums, front pad) not sure why it is only when i let off the breaks
Im at a loss of what is going on with my 2004 expeditions brakes. When I apply hard pressure on them they sink to the floor. I replaced the master cylinder with a new one, correctly bench blead it and blead all the lines following the master cylinder change. There appears to be no leaks in the brake system but even after the change their is no improvement in the brakes. Any ideas of elp on this issure would be greatly helpful.
I have a 2003 dodge ram 1500 2 wd.When i turn very sharp while CREEPING forward or backward (in the rear brake area) I get some popping with vibration( or grinding),at any higher speed there is nothing. I have replaced rortors and pads , also changed diff fluid and added limited slip additive. Any idea whats up? THANKS
My mechanic tells me that my lifetime warranty brake pad went bad (driver side front) after I told him I heard a grinding noise when I brake (Dodge Ram 1500, 1999). He recommended that I replace the break pads, and replace the rotor, calipers and hose. Why would I need to replace the calipers and hose because my break pad went bad? He also stated that I may have to pay for new break pads since there was metal on metal grinding of the breaks, thereby voiding the warrantee on the lifetime warranty breaks. is this a joke? How else would I know that the breaks are bad unless I hear the grinding noice when I actuate the breaks? Is this guy just trying to take my money?
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My 2000 Toyota 4Runner LTD 4x4 has uneven braking. It seems to slightly grab and release with the turn of the tire while decelerating at a medium rate and constant pressure (it is not felt with hard braking). It is most noticeable just before the vehicle comes to rest (between 25 and 5 mph). The pedal never pulses, it doesn’t pull left or right, there is no noticeable noise, and I can’t tell which side is causing the issue. The problem has not gone away even though I’ve had the front discs and pads replaced twice by different mechanics and purchased new tires. Do you have any suggestions on what I should have them try next?
I get a vibration when braking after they have warmed up. It feels like it is coming from the rear, but it shakes the steering wheel too. There is no pulling to either side and no noise I can hear. Also no feel of grinding or scraping. It is a 2000 F-150. Any ideas before I take it to a shop?
Umm... What happens to the car if you put brake fluid in the wrong place?
Hi I owna 2006 civic, I recently had a screeching noise from my passenger side rear wheel, im guessing. and then i read in a forum that it could be my rotors, I've owned the car eversince 2006 and I only did maintenance on it, like oil change tire rotation, etc. and i never changed my brake pads or got a resurfacing either. So I took i it the the dealer and they said that the car needs a resurfacing on the front rotors and new brake pads all around for $ 500 something dollars.. So im at a total loss right now as to what's wrong with the car exactly and is that a reasonable price for that service?? Thank You
Hi when I press the pedal brake, car do not turn on engine but w/out it does and w/engine on when press the pedal brake I have aceleration at 1750 rpm..The car is '03 Dodge Neon STX.
Hi when brake pedal is depressed, car doesn't turn on engine but when it's released it does, and w/engine running when the brake pedal is depressed I get acceleration at 1750 rpm. The car is '03 Dodge Neon STX. Thanks for your help.
I'ts really hard for me to keep up with the comments but most of what is being asked there is an answer to in the other comments. Krystal....it depends where you put the brake fluid, brake fluid is pretty nasty stuff but it is easily washed away by water so keep that in mind.
Benton, that sounds like a drivability issue rather than a brake issue.
William, that seems really high for a brake job unless there is something special that needs to be done but i highly doubt it. I would get a second opinion.
I have a 2004 Saturn Ion. 2 weeks ago I had my front rotors replaced, brake pads as well. They also gave me two new brake shoes in the back, as well as resurfaced my rear brake drums.
I recently noticed a subtle cyclical noise in the rear every time I press on the brakes. It does not sound like a metallic grinding, but more like a "chuck chuck chuck" sound.
Do you have any idea what this could be? Thanks for your help!
I would make sure all your linkage is still intact back in the drums and also there could be a wheel bearing problem.
Have a 1999 Villager Van, I constanly (every 4 to 5 weeks) have to add brake fluid to my van. No leaks under car where it is parked each day in my driveway, where is it going? Brakes seem to work fine and no "noise" when applying!! Help?
That is very odd but it has to be going somewhere, i would follow the lines from the master cylinder to each brake, you have to have a leak somewhere if you have to keep refilling it. That could be dangerous
Thanks for all of your good info. I have the same problen as Chad on my 2000 Corolla w/110k miles with a "clunck, clunck, clunck". Have new pads, rotors,shoes and drums and still the clunk. How do you check the wheel bearing? My buddy that replaced the brakes said at the time bearings seemed fine
Wheel bearings aren't too hard to check. All you need to do is have the wheels off the ground then grab onto opposite ends of the wheel and wiggle it back and forth. It should feel stiff and not have a lot of play in them. Play is felt sort of like an empty or uneven area. Bearings can get a flat spot in them and over time will keep wearing away at that same point. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the response YoJDawg. THe wheel feels pretty solid, no play. But when I spin the right rear wheel I do hear a little noise so maybe the bearing is going. But that noise is not like the cyclical clunk, clunk, clunk I hear when I brake while driving. And how about this.
I only get the clunking while going forward. Braking while going in reverse is smooth and clunk free.
Any more ideas? or could it still be the bearing?
hm, that is odd, i really doubt it would be a bearing if it only happens in one direction. I don't really know where to go with it besides saying that it could be a transmission problem or some sort of powertrain issue, axle or shaft, etc. Hard to say though
Hey YoJDawg I recently got my back brakes replaced drums and pads. (And this was happening before that) I have a pulsation when I brake which I wouldn't call a vibration. It feels like ABS but if ABS wasn't smooth at braking so it kind of jerks the car. It only happens when I apply the brakes fairly lightly and when I get passed a certain point on the push it goes away. But it is very annoying when stopping. Please let me know what this could be, and how I can figure out what is causing it with a self inspection. Thanks.
Hm, its hard to tell off hand but there could be a caliper problem that wouldn't be applying pressure equally across the pad causing that problem. Once you push it harder it would equal out and feel smooth. It's a long shot but could be the problem. The only bad thing is that there's not really an easy way to diag this.
Well I'm going to be changing my front brakes this weekend. So hopefully I can see if there is anything wrong. Thanks for your input.
Need your help, Replaced front disc brakes in Oct 2008 rotors were still ok, as was the fluid. May 2009 left front brake making an awful grinding noise when coming to a stop. This only happens after about 5 stops approx 10min of driving. Looked at disc brakes they are still fine, rotors were questionable so i replaced both front rotors on May 21st 2009, noise went. Drove close to 300 miles with out the grinding noise until today May 26th the awful grinding noise came back. Again doesnt happen till about 10 min of driving? Going to replace the pads next, Any other thoughts?
when you look at the rotors is there anything rubbing that is making grooves on your rotors, or does everything look ok? If there are grooves then obviously something is hitting. If not, I would maybe look for better quality pads and rotors and also make sure everything is correctly installed. I have missed a little clip before and ended up with a bad noise before.
I have an '08 Versa, it's new and has about 14,700 miles on it only, yet I hear a very small noise when ever I brake lightly. Why is that? I checked to see if my tires were properly inflated just in case my car system didn't detect anything, but everything seems to be fine with the exception of that small noise whenever I brake. I'm starting to think the problem might be the brake pads, but that really doesn't make sense, because my car is new and I don't brake hard with them...but then I was thinking it might be something called glazing...but that doesn't make sense either, because I really don't brake hard...however one thing or two has come into mind...I have driven in New York on bad roads and/or the fact that I have taken a long road trip from New York to Florida....?
Please help!??
it is probably the brake pads or some sort of linkage. If you are at a stand still does the sound still happen? if so that is a linkage problem with the parts that make your brakes work. If it barely makes noise while moving, its probably the pads. Living in the city makes for a lot of stop and go and causes brakes to have odd wear. Hard to say off hand though.
I have a 99 Dodge Neon. Just had new calipers, new roters and pads put on. Right side front brake smokes. What else could possibly be wrong with it?
there could be multiple problems... you really should get this looked at
My Toyota 4runner front tires wobbles when I apply brakes, can any one help me any help ?
Thanks for your help! Very much appreciated!!
It was just the brake pads, because my dad makes, shall i say frequently fast stops in the city..:D
my car shakes but only when i get up to about 80 km dose any one no what that could be thank s
i just had a set of 17 in rim s put on could it be that they need to be balanced ?
if you feel it wobble while braking it is probably your rotors, if it is just while driving (chris), its probably a tire problem but could be more than just tires, start there, its the most cheap, try to balance them.
okay will do thank s eh from here in canada peace
great article. I learned alot about brakes.
Great article and advice. I have a 2008 Nissan Sentra SE and each time I start up the car, the first couple of times that I hit the brakes to come to a complete stop, there is a grinding noise. It doesn't continue after the initial first two or three stops. There are no other noises, no squeaking or other grinding, and no car shaking or vibrations. The actual brakes work very well in terms of stopping, slowing, etc. What could it be? Thanks!
I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla. Recently replaced the front right caliper due to a stuck piston. Replaced with a rebuilt Carquest caliper, new rotors and pads. Two months later this caliper drags after warming up. The pressure will release when it cools down. If I open the bleeder screw the pressure also releases off the rotor.I replaced the flex hose. What else could be preventing the caliper to release pressure?
Vanessa, it is probably just the type of pad you are using. Brake pads can be made of different materials and will make different noises well warming up. If it brakes fine and goes away, it is probably just your brakes warming up. I wouldnt worry too much about it.
Steve, too be honest, I dont recommend the after market brake parts because often times they just dont have that great of quality. You may still have a bad caliper.
We just changed all the brakes on my GMC about a month ago and now we are getting a squeaking sound when going forward and braking but not when reversing and braking, what is happening
what kind of pads did you get? what material are they made out of?
Ugh, just replaced the caliper on the Corolla again. Same thing, after warming up the pressure doesn't release.Could it be the master cylinder?
it is possible it can be your master cylinder, im not sure on your vehicle but it could be a brake valve that may be stuck open or closed
parked my 2003 chevy malibu at a resturant came out and when tried to back up car sounded like something was draging, when went forward car made a horrible noise like the fron wheels were pulling the back. Did the same thing today after backing up and trying to go forward. Made a loud squeel noise and was almost unable to move. Finally a loud clunk and everything move find What could cause this.
I Have a 57 Plate corsa sxi which only has 13,000 miles on the clock. I was recently in a car wash and soon after while just coming out of the car wash i had to make an emergency stop but while using my brakes imediatley after they started to make a funny noise, im unsure how to describe this noise though, it doesn't realy effect the way they work but im worried encase there could be something wrong.
If you washed your car and you live in a cold place the brakes will do that for just a minute or two. Nothing to worry about. I also guess it could be that something got moisture and when it dried brakes are ok. That happens all the time up here in Minnesota.
hi i just put some new brake pads on the front 2 tires and there squeaking pretty bad....just wanted to see if it was the rotors that just needed to be turned or what? when my friend put them on he buffed out the rotor so pretty confused at this point what should i do?
I just bought a used 2002 Grand Prix. Had it for 6 days. On the 4th day of driving, I started hearing what I believe is described as a "grinding" noise when I press the brakes. However, when I was in the car with the person I bought the car from, the car sounded just fine. Is there a way that he could have "rigged" the car/brakes so that it wouldn't make noise until the car sale was made? Also the check engine light came on, on the 3rd day of having the car. Can this be rigged as well?
i just changed rotors and brake pads on a my 97 expedition.
when i put everything back together and when to test out the brakes, now it make a wierd noise and i could feel the brake pedal pushing back and truck wont stop suddenly..
but that happens in a 25-35 speed. but when im going slow 5-15 it brakes smoothly?? might it be air the line or they told me something about the booster??
i checked brake pads and rotors and everything looks fine??
Vicki, it sounds like something isn't letting go. Is your parking brake applied when this happens? If not it sounds like maybe your calipers may be sticking.
Raik, water on brakes causes noise.
Cierra, it is possible that your rotors need to be turned or you could have bad quality pads. Did they squeak before you replaced the pads?
Tia, it is possible to apply something on the rotors that would make them quiet for a small period of time like spray or what not. Check engine lights can be turned off by disconnecting the battery and sometimes it does take a few days for it to come back on so yes, it is possible that they did mess with it. But it is hard to say, you would have to have it inspected.
Jorge, could be a problem with the booster, I would give it a few days and see if they break in, sometimes it takes a bit for them to feel right since you aren't used to feeling new brakes.
So i have air in my break lines and i had them bled, they were working fine for a couple days but they got bad again like 4 days later. what could be the problem?
I have recently done the brakes on my truck. About 2weeks ago. 1 week ago my brake and Abs light came on and shortly after I had no brakes. I saw that the drivers side caliper was wet with brake fliud. I went to take it(the caliper) off and noticed that it would not release the pad from the rotors. I had already disconnected the brake line and everything. I finally got it off, returned it, got a new one and this one is doing the same thing. Checked the passenger side once I bled the brakes and it is fine!! Any Ideas???? Please Post Thanks Laura
What causes rotors to turn rusty I mean really rusty?
Hey. I have a 1997 Dodge Caravan. I'm trying to figure out what needs to get done with the brakes... The pedal goes to the floor, and feels spongy, and when I did a brake test (when the brakes 1st started acting up,) The right front tire locked up (mind you, there was gravel on the road). I'm going to get the brakes bleed, to hopefully get ride of the spongy feel, but why did the front right tire lock up? What should I have done?
I think it's time for me to take my car in. My brakes have been screeching lately, thank you for saving me $$.
sorry about the long wait between comments.
Kara, you probably have a leak somewhere in your brake system. Is your fluid low?
Laura, thats kinda an odd problem, there could be a valve incorrectly putting fluid at the wrong pressure but its hard to say. Could also be a master cylinder problem as well. Sorry I can't help more, you just have to trace the problem back starting from sqaure one.
Denise, rust on rotors i just caused by moisture in the air, just like anything else rust from sitting.
Joe, tires lock up from your ABS deciding it needs to lock up, bad calipers, bad master cylinders, etc. How are the condition of the pads? If your car has ABS you should let it do its thing while holding your foot down on the pedal. Do not pump brakes with vehicles with ABS.
Novak, glad i could help.
Hi 1 year ago I had the master cylinder changed, that night all the brakes locked on, and all four wheel were red hot, Since then only the front ones get really, cooking a burger on them hot, I just had all the brake pipes changed , fluid etc, but the front wheels are still very hot, the machanic said this was normal, apart from changing the calipers, I have alway suspected that the master cylinder was to blame, the brakes function normally on a rolling road, even before the pipes were changed, the machanic said it was the pipes , as he released something and the pistons returned as they should. Any idea's Regards Vic
Hi I forgot to mention the car is a 99 Chrysler town & country 3.8.New rear shoes,last summer, new pistons and font and rear brake flexi's. New fluid?
If your problem started after your master cylinder was replaced then I would look into the master cylinder and any sort of valves that are between the brakes and the cylinder. Did you get an after market one or a factory master cylinder? If you remove the brake lines from the caliper and pump the fluid through does it come out even or does it sputter with air or is it slow? Check the distribution of the fluid.
i have a 96 integra the abs light has been on for a couple of years and the brakes work fine i just have to replace them more often than normal no biggie
my q is now out of the blue the front right and back right brakes rae getting too hot to the point of smeling a little burn and when i drive in the morning fir a few milles the car is fine but then i think is getting hot and the front tire stars to shake i can feel it in the stering wheel and tha shaking is geting worse
when i get home i trow a little watter on the brakes and the left side are rally cold wile the right are really hot why is that?
sounds like you have a master cylinder problem or calipers, check your fluid. Also if your ABS light is on you may have a module problem as well that could cause this. Its hard to say what is what because without knowing why that light is on, you cant really decide what is wrong. To find out, you would have to take it to a shop for diag.
Hello YoJDawg, great info on here. Okay my 2002 Dodge Dakota had a problem passing the state inspection test of 20 mph hit the brakes hard and you are supposed to stop quickly. Well my truck would catch and release, kind of a jumpy feeling and would not stop fast enough(kinda stop, then go, then stop {the wheel turning}). Well I changed out the rotors and the brake pads and it is not as bad but still does the catch and release of the braking. Could this be a caliper problem? Master cylinder? Figured I would change out the calipers next. You can kinda here a popping sound when it does this as well. Thanks for any suggestions.
Mark, it is most likely a caliper problem. I recommend just having someone sit in the car and hold the brakes down while you inspect it by turning it by hand while it is on jack stands. You might be able to see how it is failing. Also, check your fluid, make sure there are no leaks. Most likely a caliper, you just need to remove them and inspect fluid flow and the condition of the calipers.
Thanks Dawg, good info right there, I'll do that. Once again thanks man.
Well, new calipers did not fix it, I'm gonna go over the whole system and see if there are any leaks. It does not feel spongy to me but I wonder if there is any air in the system, may bleed all four to see if that is it, booster maybe.
hey i just put 17 inch rims on my 2005 honda civic and well before we put them on we had no noise or vibrations in the brakes at all now once they were on we notest vibrations when brakes were applied but only going over 80 km then i went to 100km and slowly lifted the e brake and found out it is coming from the back end now is there any chance they could have over tightened the rims and bent the rear drums because it does sound alot like my drums are warped but i also noticed thats before we put the rims on the back brakes were getting a lil slack like they were getting too warn plz give me ur input plz
it is quite possible something went wrong when putting on those rims. After market rims, especially ones that are larger and heavier can cause a lot of problems. If you are sure its brakes i recommend swapping the rear rims with the front and see what happens. If nothing happens the it is for sure the brakes, if it changes, its the rims. Hope that gives you a head start, let me know how it goes.
Hi, you say that by heating up your brakes too much they can glaze over, yet to bed in your brakes properly you have to heat them up in a controlled way to the point of brake fade to transfer pad material to the rotor for better brake performance and less noise. What's What? Thanks
Well just like anything if you cook it too long it burns, too little and its not cooked right. So basically its finding that happy medium. The best way to do it is just to drive normal, not hard stop and going or riding the brakes, most normal driving would be fine for breaking in new pads and rotors. hope that helps
if one hub is to bad to be turned and i replace it do i need to replace the other one to evan if it is good and dont evan need turned
hey, i was driving one day last week and not sure what happened, but my brake pedal is spongy and goes to the floor. i have changed the calipers and bled the brakes three times, only brake fluid comes out. no leaks anywhere, brake fluid is full, pads and rotors are good, drums and shoes are good. my brake pedal is still very low and spongy but it does stop the car. not like it used to though. i am stumped, please help. any thoughts?
ok, i think i got it the right brake its over heating to a point that smells burn and some smoke come out from behind the brakes and when i stop in an up or down hill the car wont move and i think is because the brakes are compress against the rotor at all times
what do you think i should change the caliper the rotor or the , cylinder or piston, now the left rotor is completely cold help please im broke and cant afort to pay a auto shop
Derrick, some people do replace rotors/drums in pairs just so that they are evenly wearing together and perform in the same condition. Its totally up to you if you want to replace them, you should at least turn them though so they have a good new surface.
Shawn, if you have replaced everything then it may just be a matter of giving it time to break in and get to proper working condition. Give it a bit to start to feel normal. If it doesnt work then there is something wrong and will need to be looked into more.
Pozky, its probably a bad caliper making your brakes get so hot. If you are low on money some places like carquest and napa offer a rebuild kit for the caliper which replaces the seals, pistons, and just kinda cleans it out. Its a good way to see how something works and save money if you are low. If not, rebuilt calipers are pretty cheap for most vehicle or you could also get one from a junk yard. Hope it helps and good luck.
thanks for the help on my caliper i replace and its working fine
i know you help with brakes but maybe you know why
i raise my car front wheel drive and i notice's that right wheel was turning in neutral and when i put it in fist only the right wheel turn
sorry to ask about wheels but you been so much help
thanks 4 all
hi, i was just wantin to ask a question. I have a 2008 civic sedan dx-g, i bought it new, and i've had many problems with the brakes from day one. I have been complaining about a grinding sound when releasing the brakes slowly. The sound would be coming from the back of the car. IT SOUNDS HORRIBLE. i went to the dealer and he told me that it was normal. Myself, not being a mechanic, but owning 21 cars previous, knew that this was a joke!! i had asked him to get me another civic and show me the same sound. He brought another one and it made no sound wut so ever, and he said that when this car reaches the same mileage as mine (20000km) it will sound the same!! I've also had my brakes burn on me many times and i dont know wut to do. Im not riding my brakes, and im not braking hard. I just saw the dealer yesterday and he says that its time to change my brakes again. This will be my 4th pair in 51000km. Im just really sick and tired of this car and all the problems. i also noticed way too much brake dust on my rims right after driving after a car wash. I was thinking that the problem could be related to the transmission, because of the fact that i have noticed it doesnt shift sometimes, specifically 3-4th gear. It is a 4 cylinder, automatic, 1.8l. But honda tells me that there is absolutely nothing wrong with the car. Im also on my 3rd pair of front tires. they burn too fast because there is no traction and as soon as i even touch the pedal, they spin out. PLEASE HELP!!!!
Pozky, I dont think i really understand the question so I cant help you out much.
Fluence, there are many different sounds brakes can make down the road. If it is the sound i am thinking of then a lot of cars do make that noise. Is it actually grinding or does it sound like mechanical parts moving? The fact that it is a 2008 its hard to think there could be that much wrong with. Hondas are pretty reliable cars, i myself have a 96 and there isnt too many problems with them. Where do you live? Big city? Your tire problem could be an alignment problem, bad tire inflation. Are you rotating your tires? Being that its a front wheel drive car, your front tires will always wear more quickly than the front, make sure to rotate your tires every other oil change.
You can always go to another shop to get a second opinion.
Thx for the reply, i live in new westminster, bc, canada, small little part of vancouver but roads are nice. The sound coming from the back of the car when releasing the brakes was a releasing sound, but horrible, just really loud and it never used to do that. About the tires, honda had complained that my tires were a problem even though i had the originals, i have changed them twice since, and then they blamed the balancing and rotating. i got everything done, then they blamed my alignment. Then they did my alignment and i still have the same problem. Now when i go back to the service department, they say that its normal. its just because they cant say anything else about it. i did exactly wut they said and now they cant blame me for anything and they dont know how to fix it. My drive shaft has been changed, my right tire rod has also been changed and all the work has been done by them and now i have a feeling that the drive shaft has to be replaced again because its making the same sound that it did in the beginning. CV joint as well. but they dont know why its happening. I told them that they sold me a lemon, and all i get from the service manager is "drive it til it falls apart"
I have a 2003 Explorer. I was driving the other day and as I was coming to a stop I felt and heard a grinding noise. It sounds like it is coming from the front right, but when I looked I can't see any thing out of the ordinary. I drove home parked the car. When I left in the morning I did not have the same problem. However when leaving work about 20 minutes into my drive I noticed the same grinding sound and feeling except now I also hear a what sounds like a loose piece of metal rattling in the wheel well. I looked again and rotors look fine no unusual grind pattern but feel like from the sound of the rattling and grinding that the entire brake assembly or wheel might fall off. Brakes work fine during this and it sounds like it may only be one wheel. Any clues what this might be?
if it is only happening when you apply the brake then there is probably just some glazing or dirt in your pads. did you look at the inside of the rotor? most brakes wear faster on the inside.
Hi my integra is going crazy when i drive it i am hearing clonker sounds while I am on the road when i go uphill i hear it more do you know what the problem is has it somethin to do with my brakes..
When I press on my brakes the whole truck starts to shake. Its not when I'm going slow, rather going pretty fast (faster than 1 RMP). We've turned down all 4 rotors and replaced all brake pads. Is there something else that could be wrong or do I just need to replace all the rotors?
My husband just had our rotors turned and now it seems like our front brakes don't work as well. Is there something more we should have done when we put the rotors back on? The brakes didn't look like they needed to be replaced.
Great info on here, I am in desperate need of assistance. Last weeks my brakes were really mushy and they went out completely last night. The brake line was busted by the drivers rear side. Replaced the line, bled the brakes for 2 hours and they would not tighten up. Drove the car they were very tight. got in the car this morning and the brakes went out again. there are no leaks anywhere and now the brakes are grinding very loud, could they have been tightened up too much last night? Also, what do I do now? the lines are getting fluid. please help!
Shawna, I recommend having someone pump the brakes while another person follows every line from the master cylinder so that you can see if anywhere there is something leaking. It sounds like you are losing fluid somewhere. Double check everything.
We have a 1997 Ford F150 4X4 that we have had in the shop 2 times now because the front rotor/drum??? is getting so hot it is turning blue. The first time the guy cleaned and checked everything and said it was ok, and found no problem, second time (same guy) put new brake lines on cause he said they might be kinked. Drove it yesterday and it is still doing it. Mainly on gravel roads but they get so hot they crack and pop like a wood stove pipe....any suggestions please???? and we are not "riding" the brakes when this happens
I own a Jeep Liberty 05 and just recently we heard a thudding noise as we were applying the brakes. Well we had the brakes replaced and we picked up our jeep on friday after the mechanic was home for the weekend and it was making the same noise if not worse. I noticed its not when you apply the brakes but usually if i'm going 55 and let the jeep slow down on its own at about 45 mph and 25 mph it makes the noise all by itself! and then when we were getting gas yesterday (Sunday) when my husband tried to start the jeep it wouldn't start it was making a clicking noise. He tried it a couple times and it finally started! I am driving 3 hours with my 2 year old son tomorrow and want to make sure my jeep is safe! any suggestions?
Nancy, do you have ABS? I ask because if you are on a gravel road and feel it mainly then, that could mean that your ABS unit is having problems applying the brakes correctly causing this problem off and on gravel roads. ABS will apply your brakes automatically so if its not working correctly, it could cause it to apply when not needed.
The car clicking and not starting is a battery problem. Just doesnt have enough juice, I recommend replacing it. That is 99% the problem I would think. The noise.... hmm hard to say but could be a bearing which if it just started probably isnt that bad yet. It will just make noise and may feel a little odd but I recommend having it checked out. It could be a costly repair just FYI.
I have a 2005 jeep liberty. A few weeks ago, I was coming home from work when I started noticing my jeep didn't have a lot of power. A few minutes later, I started smelling the brakes as well as noticing that I couldn't press the brake pedal. I had to have the jeep towed. New calipers and brakes were put on the rear where (we thought) the probelm was coming from. The mechanic noticed that after this was done, no brake fluid was going to the rear brakes. He took apart the box where the brake fluid hoses run to and found a scratch which he filed down and bled the brakes. The jeep ran fine for him and for several hours after I got it. However, yesterday I was running to town and the same thing happened, the brake pedal wouldn't push and the right side front and rear brakes were smoking. I've spent several hundred dollars already with a mechanic who doesn't know what he's doing. Can you please help?
We took it into another guy and got it fixed. We needed both calipers replaced, both brake pads, one disc was fried so it was replaced and the other one turned. One of the brake pads had been so hot that it had come apart. I feel good that all this should have fixed them-thanks so much for your help!
I get a loud sound "Ka-lunk" from the back of my F-250 when I apply the brakes in reverse.
2002 Manual Trans.
I found the problem, the brake pad was broken.
Hi,
I have a 2007 Chevy Imapala i just got the brake pads and rotors changes like 2 months ago and when i press the brake it makes my car shake a little... what could be the cause of that?
Alicia, sounds like warped rotors, recommend getting them resurfaced. Braking hard over time or riding the brakes can cause them to warm up and warp a little. It only takes a little bit to get them to the point where they my shake a little. Hope it helps.
This is a great article! I have a 2000 toyota echo. About a year ago i got the rotors replaced and in november i had the front brake pads replaced.
about 4 months ago i had someone tell me that i need to get my rear brake pads replaced ( i had the car inspected a month before by a very reliable mechanic, so i called him and he said that the lil chain place was trying to rip me off and they were fine for a few more months).
a month later my rear brakes started squeaking after driving a little bit (about 10 minutes or so) they go squeak, squeak, squeak as i slow down. nothing terribly loud or squeaky, but it seems as they get hotter, the more noise they make. so i figured, ah i do need brakes. when i got them looked at (by a different reliable mechanic) the mechanic said they needed to be realigned badly and cleaned, BUT there was plenty of padding left and everything was fine.
now, a month after getting them realigned/ cleaned they are squeaking like they were before they were 'fixed'.
is it possible that they just keep falling out of line, if so why? or should i get new brake pads? i had new rotors put on fairly recently- so im hoping this isnt an issue with them. THANK YOU for any advice. im at lost with a bunch of different people telling me they are fine, but they are squeaking and dont feel fine and it just isnt normal. this is very helpful.
I have a 2000 toyota camry. I have had the master cylinder replaced 2x in less than a year. The front left brake pad, which is ceramic 35000 mile pad, keeps getting stuck in the on position. Any ideas on what it could be?
I have a 1989 honda crx , recently upgraded the front brakes to a 90-93 integra(DA). i also replaced the check valve and replaced the rear brakes and ajusted the e-brake corectly in hopes to resolve this issue.. when i drive the car for about 10 miles the brake pedal gets stiffer and stiffer which each time i use it until it comes to a point the pedal so stiff u barly need tot tap it to really break. when this occurs you really need to press the gas pedal alot more to go the same speeds. i sson plan on changing rear drums to disc brakes but need to be sure this will adress the isse, oh i also replced the partitioning valve thinking something was glogged the lines were bed several times and dot 4 was added please help me YOJDAWG i am seriously stressed that it might be a pinched line.
everyone I am sorry it took me a while to get back to everyone.
Rachel, if your have rear drums in the back it is possible that they can keep coming out of alignment. Drum brakes have a lot of different levers, springs, retainers, etc. So if something is bent, or worn it could throw everything off. I would have the actual parts looked at, not the alignment of them.
Wendy, your piston is probably bad. Also what type of master cylinder did you buy? Being in the auto industry I hate going with cheap after market master cylinders. They often times will go out in the less than a year. We have had to replace one here in the shop 3 times before getting an OE one that worked properly.
James, it is very possible you pinched a line but without checking all the lines there isn't really a way to tell. When you did this conversion did you read up on it and make sure it would be an easy swap. If you mess with certain ratios it can cause different situations.
My car has been shaking badly when breaking between 40-55 mph. I feel it in the steering wheel and the pedal a little bit. Once i get below 40 the shaking is very minimal. I changed out my front rotors and pads, shaking is not as bad but still occurs? Could this mean the rear drums are worn??
I drive a 1996 Olds, nighty eight regency
Thanks alot, im stuck.
Great Hub... I just made one regarding simple brake repair including some tips. Check it out if you like! Keep the great posts coming. Thanks.
After having the brake fluid flushed in a 2003 Civic automatic, I notice a slight clicking sound at the completion of braking. This occurs after the car is in drive and both when you are moving or can be heard repeatedly when at rest if the brake pedal is depressed repeatedly. Could it be air left in the system, the brake switch or something related to the master brake cylinder. It is quite annoying. Thanks.
So I have been a bad owner and have left my car abandoned for a couple of months because of my car wont pass emissions my egr vaccuum exploded and the actual egr valve has been replaced, as well as my catalytic converter and now my battery has died on my car.I recently gave the car a jump and took it for a drive, it sounds like the brake is stuck. well more so it sounds like there is something that is stuck to the brake? like when the tires spinning there is a thud that is being made as they spin. last time this happened my mechanic simply took the parts out and put some lube then put them back on and my car was back to being a smooth operator. however, its doing it again and im not sure if i could simply put the lube on myself did this happen because I havent driven it in so long? and if so what type of lube do I need its a 2000 toyota Camry Ce. the car is not shaking the brakes are not screeching and the brake isnt being pulled. Help!
Great explanation. I have a nissan terrano 11 SE 2001 turbo diesel and when braking, the ABS growls. Sometimes the ABS comes in without having to apply brakes. The growling/grinding is louder than normal operation. What can this be? I refaced the discs, put in new pads, change all shocks, new brake fluid, bleed brakes and there are no leaks. Can you say whether the sensors are bad or the refacing of discs twice is the cause?
Email me at msdg50@hotmail.com
c-lo it could just be needing some lube again if you let it sit, stuff builds up and gets hard, if not, you will have to look into it further.
Martin, could be an ABS module, those things can be pricey but they control how the ABS works
hello i have a question,
Every time i go down from the country which is driving about 10 minutes down the hill i loose my brake and it just got filled by air so i have to push multiple time to get brakes usefull and sometimes i can't even stop!
What could be the reason ?
thank you
YoJDawg, thanks for what you're doing here man! 4years is a long time to keep it up, props to you.
Marc you have some sort of leak, it could be a seal, hole, or anything. Having a leak allows air to get into the brake system causing you to pump the brakes. Also, depending on the vehicle if you ride the brakes the whole time it could cause heat which can change the way the fluid acts, especially if it is older fluid.
Patrik, thanks man, its hard to keep up but I try and get back to everyone
Thanks for this post.
I have been having a problem where my rotors are warping after only a couple of months. My mechanic has replaced them several times under warranty, but I want to stop this from happening. I also notice some squeaking at low speeds that stop when the brakes are applied. Is this a clue? Any advice would be appreciated!
I'm having some serious issues with the brakes on my 2000 Honda Accord (Automatic). I got new (front) tires about a month ago and all of the sudden a few days later I started having trouble getting my car out of Park! I figured this had something to do with the sensor that tells the engine that my foot is on the brake (and so it's okay to let me switch out of park). But when I called the tire place, they said there's no way that changing the tires would have affected this sensor. Is that true? Because it seems pretty logical that if the problem stated after I got the new tires, something must have gotten disturbed.
I've been sort of dealing with the problem for a few weeks now--it's a pain and can take some serious playing around with the brakes in order to get out of park sometimes, but last night it finally got worse and I realized that my brakes are hardly working anymore! I read some of the older posts and it sounds like a leak in the brake line somehwere--any other ideas? Or any thoughts on whether changing my tires could have caused this?
Thanks!
JT, most brakes will make a noise when applying the brake then stop once you have fully stepped on the pedal.
Q, unless something was damaged or broken while the installation of your tires then that should not cause that problem. It does sound like your brake switch which is the most common problem but could also be bigger things. I would start with that switch, its cheap and easy.
As far as your brakes not working as well anymore, its hard to say, what are the condition of the brakes?
Apparently I had one too many drinks at a local bar and my wife took my keys and drove off with my truck. I drive a 1995 GMC Sierra 4x4 - When she drove off I heard a lot of disturbing noises coming from my truck. When I got home I checked my truck and she ended up driving my truck home in 4 low with the emergency brake on. Now when I apply pressure to my brakes I have to push it completely to the floor and my truck is pulling hard to the right. Does this mean I have Brake Paul with a bad air leak? Could her driving my truck in those conditions I have listed be the cause of this? Is this even a brake error at all?
Thank you
well it sounds like you toasted the brake system, i would recommend replacing your master cylinder and check out the condition of everything else. Also, dont drink and drive
hi, i have a problem with my brakes, my pads are fine, but they used to make a screech sound when id brake, now theres no screech just a clonking noise when i brake, and sometimes they feel very soft and like they arent going to work, and also when i brake the steering wheel pulls straight to the left side, can you tell me what the cause could be please?
I drive a 2005 Dodge Caravan (2005). I've gone through 2 sets of brake pads already this year and the brakes seemingly are starting to grind again. It seems the last 2 times replacing them, they lasted maybe 6-7 weeks. I deliver pizza and put on approx 600 miles a week. So, this would mean I have changed pads the past 2 times at about the 3,600-4,000 mile useage. Any ideas why this is happening so frequent? Thanks
I have a 1997 Chev Astro Van, I don't drive it as much as I use too. On two occasions when going down the road and after braking, then resuming driving, the van will start a severe shaking in the front... I then have to go about 30 miles or so until I get back home. My husband check the front pads, but shows little wear on them. This has done it two times since we had the back shoes replaced. I know it is coming from the front, because the first time they acted like this I came down a off ramp and the shaking started. Is it possible since I don't drive the vehicle about every two weeks, the calipers are sticking?
Wow! Nice work keeping up with all the of the comments and questions on your article!
I hate to add one more to you but one question. In early July I was rear ended, no apparent damage except for some bumps on bumper. End of August I had soft brakes--so a reliable mechanic replaced the rear wheel cylinders (one was seized and one was leaking), bled the brake lines, machined the drums, adjusted the brakes. He inspected the whole braking system and said it seemed fine. The rear passenger tire was also patched and repaired. The brake pads were fine. Needless to say this was probably from the accident.
Everything seemed fine until 2 weeks ago (late September, about a month after the repairs). I've been hearing a quiet thud or thumping sound whenever I brake or creep to a slow stop. It sounds like its coming from the back but its hard to tell. At first I thought it was nothing, but then this past week in got more consistent and started happening more often. What could this be from?
I have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata w/ 44,000 miles on it. A month ago I heard a high pitched squealing/whistling sometimes w/ or w/out breaking, noise which I thought was coming from my front wheels. My dad checked the FRONT brakes & they were fine. This morning as I braked, a loud scratching metal sound came from the rear right. I believe my pad could be worn down but does that make sense? I don't excessively brake & I don't use my emergency brake. I'm afraid to bring it to the dealer because they usually charge too much & tell me there are other problems. Is it possible that I only need rear pads & NO rotors? Thanks for your help.
Robert, have you looked at the condition of your pads or the calipers? You could be getting the noise or pull from either and/or both.
Mark, it sounds like either poor quality pads or driving conditions. Also, make sure your rotors are good which can cause them to wear faster.
Renee, its possible that they are sticking but unlikely. I would check for warping of the rotors. It causes the pads to "jump" around the disc.
Heather.....hmmm thats a hard one to call. It could always be something with the brakes, but it could also be something moving while braking that may have been damaged in the little bump. I would check around where you got bumped and make sure nothing is loose. Jump around in it while something is under it. Hope that points you in a direction. Also, thanks for the comment, its hard to keep up but i try when I can.
Becky, noise come can from wear, debris, glazing, or yes, bad brakes. I would check the condition of all the pads and rotors. Also, don't be scared of dealers, I don't know the reputation of your local Toyota dealer but most dealers really do have more knowledge than smaller shops. They may charge a little more than the smaller shops but they also have access to equipment, technical resources, and insider info that smaller shops don't have. Small shops are great, but for newer vehicles I highly recommend using dealers. Try getting a free inspection, they may find things that are wrong you didnt expect, but dont feel obligated to do it, most of the time it is just pre warning you of possible issues, i.e. brake noise. Hope it helps.
Thanks so much for your advice! The metal noise just started today. I only drive 15 min. each way to work. Do you think I can make it until the weekend to get it checked? Do you have a rough idea of how many miles I can go before I ruin the rotor if I already to hear the metal noise.
Becky, its really hard to say how long you have just because there could be so many factors on whether or not you really do barely have any brake pads left. You could have brakes that are barely there, or you could have just a glazing or dust problem. Its really hard to say and I wish i could tell you more but honestly it never hurts to be safe and get it checked.
my 04 jeep wrangler makes a squeeling noise but not when you brakes its been in the shop four times already and they cant find whats wrong i think its the callipers but im not a mechanic.brakes are relatively new any answers
gary... im not sure i understand your question. You have a noise, but not when you brake?
I have a 96 ford taurus, when you hit the brakes it would barely stop, so I bought front rotors and brake pads and my friend fixed it. We checked the back pads and they looked fine, so did the rotors. But when I drove it, the car will stop but you have to apply a lot of pressure to the brakes and it feels like it's coasting. What else could be wrong?
I have a 1999 chevy cavilier and in the front right wheel, everytime i let off the break and press the gas, the wheel kind of jerks ( making a thumping noise) i was just wondering if you knew what that was? Please Help!
Sami, I would check to see if there is any air in your brakes by bleeding them. If not there could be larger problems.
Crissy, could be a bad caliper sticking. Check it out, if not, possible bearing problem.
I had my front rotors resurfaced and my abs is d/c but my light is not on yet when I break I get a bad shaking when breaking at any speed
Its like abs is aalways on I thought abs is on when hit breaks hard I also hear a clunkin but only from driver froont tire area
since it has gotten cold my brakes ,or something around that area is making a weird noise like a grinding noise i had my brakes changed about 4 months ago what else could it be? any ideas,someone told me maybe my brake calipar ,could it be freezing or have ice build up
I have a 1995 Chevy Corsica (3.1 6 cylinder) with front disc brakes and rear drum brakes.
Felix, disconnected your ABS is not good and can cause a bunch of problems.
Bobbi, depending on the grade of your pads, cold weather can make them make noise.
Paul.... real fine
this sounds like something is dragging and its a bad nasty sound,my son has changed the calipar the brake line the brake and the rotors,so apparently its not the brakes .....any ideas anyone?
wheel bearings are always a possibility
hi, i have a 1993 toyota corolla. one day i noticed that my pedal became very soft. would only grab when pedal is at floor. i bled the brakes didnt work, changed msster cylinder, brake pads, brake shoes. bled again. still no change. didnt notice any leaks. im real puzzled. what do you think?
hm, as long as your brakes are in good condition then im not sure what else you could do. Maybe check calipers for pressure and proper movement
I have a 94 jeep grand Cherokee, my brakes have basically failed, you have to pump the breaks to stop and they only hold for a few seconds, also the e-brake does not work, I was wondering if that could be because the rear breaks are bad? Or if it's the master cylinder? Or both? Or maybe air in the breaks? The break fluid is not low so I'm guessing it's not leaking? The breaks were feeling squishy for about a week and then the pedal went straight to the floor two days ago.
I haven't had any problems with my brakes, no noise or vibration. I took my 1997 Mazda B2300 in for an oil change and a cooling sys flush. They told me that I needed new rotors NP,pads ADO and new brake wheel seals. It is a manuel trans and I avoid stop and go traffic.
I have a 97 Grand Prix and all pads, front rotors, and rear brake lines have been repaired. After the brake lines were repaired, Now my ABS light is on. Also I still have a serious vibration when I put my brakes on. Do you have any idea what my problem is still?
You are such a great help to people here. Few people cares to share what they know.
Jenn
Alright. Sorry I have been AWOL. Everyone vibration while braking usually pad/rotor combo. Replace and check
Lights are usually due to sensors but you usually have to hook up a scanner to check it out better. Hope it helps. It's hard to explain more than the things that have been repeated over and over.
Hello YoJDawg, thanks for your article!
Question, if possible: I have a Toyota Rav4 1997. The rear brakes make a weird noise but just after a while driving. I'm electronic technician and I know that when something stops working after a while is due to a component that became very hot. Could this be a similar situation?
The noise it makes is a high pitch "cueek...cueek...cueek", so as the wheel turns, while pushing the brake pedal, the noise goes on and off.
Any idea what this could be?
Thank you!
Correction to my previous post: the noise is not a high pitch noise, is a rubbing noise.
Dani some rubbing noise is normal as long as it doesn't grind
My brakes were making this grinding sound and then they would sometimes make a clunk sound like something was hitting metal, well i put my truck on the hoist took the tires off and the rotors and calipers were fine with good brake pads, now the back drums were fine too, but the problem is still happening and when i push the pedal to the floor, it goes all the way and applies the ABS. This happens even in dry weather. My question is, does the lines need to be blead or my master cylinder need to be replaced?
Those noises shouldn't happen. Are the drums missing any pieces or anything out of place?
i inspected them and everything was fine, could it be the bearings?
It's possible. Does it make noises when driving or when braking?
driving, and the brake has no pressure so it goes straight to abs
If it making a noise with no brake pressure it's not the brakes.
Hey man.I own a 97 mercury mystique and about two days ago when it snowed I went out and my car got stuck in ice,ever since that day the front drivers side brake seemed as if it was stuck and the tire wouldnt spin.I drove it yesterday about 30 minutes and as I was driving home it kept getting harder to press on the brakes and there was a burning smell coming from the front drivers side wheel.When I got home and checked it the disk was glowing a bright red color and smoke was coming from it!About 2 minutes later my tire actually deflated from the heat I guess.What do you think is wrong with it?
Sounds like a stuck caliper. Going to have to replace it, pads, fluid, make sure it didn't cook anything else like your master cylinder. Also check your tire for damage.
my problem sounds a little like Josh's, i have a 96' Neon. the front driver side brake is sticking. i took it apart and bled the line. thought it was seized but it does not appear to be. we got the piston to slide out but it doesnt want to go back to normal position. rotor gets hot.pads are brand new and after inspecting the passenger side i noticed that the calipers are not the same.the passenger side works fine as do my rear drums. theres plenty of fluid getting to the driver side caliper but the piston just doesnt want to return to normal position resulting in unwanted friction on the rotor. the brake pedal is also stiffer than a mother%&$$#!@$. could it in fact be seized? any help would be greatly appreciated...also a great article. thanks
Some calipers if extended to far, will pop out of their slot and make it extremely hard to put back in. If you can't get it on then you have to replace.
okay thanks, when I got my mechanic to inspect the brakes he said there was no problems, so but all the noises and clunks are coming from the one side by the tire. could there be a problem with the bearings? and would that be part of why there is no brake pressure? or is that the master cylinder
Thanks for answering my question.My dad and I bought a new brake caliper only to find out it wasnt that.The caliper seemed ok,we inspected the master cylinder,and the brake booster.The cylinder seemed ok but when we pressed on the brakes with the cylinder off the booster seemed to get stuck and it made this weird popping noise before going all the way.We bled the brake lines,changed the brake fluid,brake pads and got the tire fixed(valve messed up from all the heat so they changed the valve on it at a tire shop for 5$).We tested the car out and now everything seems to work alright.The car brakes work and stop as they should and the caliper doesnt seem to get stuck anymore.Im not sure what it was but we will wait and see if the problem has been fixed or not.What would you suggest do if the same problem happens as before?Thanks
Cm04. The noise is prob a bearing if it's not the brakes. If possible raise that one tire and wiggle it and spin it to see how it sounds.
Josh, keep an eye out on that caliper, heat can do nasty things to the inside of brake parts. If it happens again stop and let it cool down then take it apart to see if it happens. Also keep an eye out on that booster.
I have replaced my brakes on my cars for many years. I replaced the front brakes on my van and bled them. For some reason when I put on the brake and then let off "Just a Little" I loose all the pressure and the brake goes to the floor. I do not think there is any leaks because I do not see any evidence of a leak and there is no fluid on my garage floor. Also the fluid is never low.
Any suggestions?
Rodney
Hard to say, sounds a little like a master cylinder problem not controlling the pressure properly. Hard to say for sure though.
hey dawg
i have a strange one here, similar to Josh from 4 weeks ago. i have a vw Golf 4 GTI with the 312mm discs, anyhoo. OE setup, i drive the car for bout 20min or so, the pedal gets harder and harder and the brakes begin to bind, right to the point where they pretty much lock up, leaving me stranded in town and having to push my car really hard to get it moving to my house to let it cool down. once cooled down after bout 2-3 hours, everything is fine again until another 20min. i had my calipers replaced with the OE ones again, uprated discs and mintex pads (since ive gone big turbo on my car)and the brakes were fine for bout 600miles, this friday past it started doing the same as before, brakes started to bind after 20min of driving and the pedal goes stiff.
go drive for like...... 15 minutes or so, and if possible put your vehicle on a lift and pull the wheels off and have someone give it gas to like...2000 RPM or so, nothing to crazy just enough to get the wheels turning so you can brake. Hit the brakes and see if the calipers are disengaging , if they aren't then you have a problem. If you already replaced the calipers then you may have a master cylinder problem but its hard to say off hand. I am not too familiar with VW so i dont know what other type of controls they have but I would check there. Good luck
Hi YoJDavg
I changed my rotors and brake pads recently. I got this 'yingggg ringgg' kind of screeching sound & noise whenever I brake on a downward slope after driving off from my multistorey carpark in the morning.
It goes off after about a couple of braking on normal level roads.
I am not sure if it comes from the front or the rear. My rear is drum. Any advice
Well depending on what type of brake material you are using. Some brakes will make noise when warming up. Also, if you are on a slop, whatever part of the car is pointing down has more braking pressure and may cause noise. You could try going in reverse but it may not be that safe, but it should allow you to isolate the noise to the front or rear.
I have an 03 civic lx it was parked from August I just started to drive it again and the car makes a horrible grindind rubbing sound that seems to come from both rear wheels when I brake and for a little after I release the brake.The faster i go the worst the sound when I try to brake and it feels like the brake is shaking under my foot. Sometimes the front passenger wheel makes the same sound too but last year i had the two front brake pads replaced.I dont know much about cars but after looking at the wheels i noticed that there is quite a bit of rust....what do you think i should do?
I would take your brakes apart and clean them all up. rust on your brakes can cause them to feel weird if you don't take care of it.
Hi YoJDawg
Regards to your questions 2 days ago, I have the same noise when I got the car. The workshop said my rotor warped and has rings with valleys, so my front rotors and pads were changed. The pads are NpADS brand. Kinda of semi hard. Intially no noise, but oh no, the noise is back again everytime I started off in the morning and going down the slopes of the multi storey carparks, the noise is loud like metal grinding or rinnggggging sound and yinnnnnnngggggg sound. My wife said from a distance from hearing the noise she know I am driving down.
OMG!
ok thanks...so you dont think its anything major or some kind of failure? I brought it to three garages one said that its the rust being rubbed off so its normal the second said that its probably because the brake line has seized up the third said i need new brakes on the two rear axle:S......i think its fair to say they dont know
I have a 1989 Chevy Z71. Feels like the brakes are engaging when I turn a lot left or right. Any ideas?
Kelly, that seems odd, its hard to say but something could be pinching as you turn, but most likely a steering problem.
Hey YoJDawg,
I've got a strange car problem. When driving my 2009 Chevy Traverse down the highway, after about 15 minutes a serious shuddering develops in the back end (or so it feels). This shuddering builds in intensity until it's quite loud, and if I hit the brakes, it gets even louder. However, about 5 minutes after it peaks, it goes away.
I have about 45000 miles on my car. According to the oil change shop, I still have plenty of pad left on my brakes.
Warped rotor? If so, why does it come and go like that?
Thanks!
okay so yesterday i pushed my breaks pretty hard before switching from park to drive, now my breaks have no pressure. all the break fluid is still in the car and has not leaked. my breaks only work a little bit when i push them down to the floor. what does this mean?
Hey YoJDawg,
Thanks you for all the info. I've read almost all of it trying to find an answer to my problem and had no luck.
So, two days ago I replaced the rear pads and drums. I drove the car on the highway and noticed vibration while applying the brakes (on both the brake pedal and steering w.) which seemed to be coming from the front of the car, there was no vibration before this. I took it back to the shop they showed me that everything was replaced right and recomended that I replace the front rotors and pads.
We did so today and still I can feel vibration (not so much on the steering whell anymore). I called the shop and they suggest it might be a defective drum since the vibration happends after replacing it and since I bought the parts. They also told me to "drive for a wk. bring it back and we can resurface the drums." (Is this safe)?
Any ideas?
Thank you in advance.
do you last three still need help? I am sorry, have had a rough couple weeks with baby, not much time to hub. Let me know
Would you recommend for me to get the drums resurfaced?
Does the vibration happen only when you brake? If it does, and it is NOT from the steering wheel then it sounds like the drums. It will be safe to drive, it could just be a little uncomfortable. Give it a week see if it gets better, if not you could turn the drums or get them replaced, see if where you got them from offers a warranty. All rotors/drums should come turned and balanced. Hope it helps
So I just bought a 2001 Impala LS for a very cheap price. Previous owner told me car needs all rotors and pads changed as he didnt even remember how long ago he had done brakes. And yes, you could see the discs were badly scratched and rusty from lack of driving.
I got all the pads changed and all 4 discs. Car brakes great, BUT (has to be one there, or else I wouldnt be here) the left rear brake pad is sticking. So take it back to the shop and they said it was probably a bad caliper. I'm in a remote region, so getting the part is a problem... so they rebuild the caliper at the shop there and the problem persists. They said it could be a bad master cylinder which can get price...the only reason they are hesitant to replace it is because usually there would be more than one line having problem...not just the left rear as Im having. The funny thing is that when you slam on the brakes, the ABS kicks in no problem, and btw I have no ABS light staying on or nothing like that.
They also thought maybe it was the parking brake...so they checked the line and release it so that it would do nothing then you apply the parking brake, but the problem persists.
I guess I should mention this car is 4 disc brake with ABS and it also has a DRUM inside the rear HAT for the parking brake. They told me I could change that and see if that fixes it, but it get very pricey. I dont even use parking brake, so I dont want to spend money on repairing it and making EVERYTHING in both sides brand new. Can they just remove the hardware inside the HAT? the stuff for the parking brake? It seems to be two separate systems...the parking brake and the disc brakes.
Just curious.... that would save me the part cost and just leave me with a bit of labour only.
Thank you
it sounds like a caliper or hardware problem at that wheel. I would make sure the hardware is working correctly and hot holding the parking brake on. If not, maybe a caliper, rebuilding a caliper isnt always as good as replacing it.
i had my front break pads changed, but whenever i brake i hear a vibration from the front tyres. what could it be
My 206 GS 300 Awd rides silky smooth but I here a clanking noise when it drives over rough roads. If I press the brakes as I drive over the same rough roads the clanking stops. Note, large bumps aren't a problem just the rough roads then clank clank clank. How can I stop this. I can't drive all day with my foot on the brake.
hi
i had my breaks done yestaday by my dad, i had the break pads changed. when i break it feels like i have badder breaks than before now. is that normal? have the breaks got to bend in cause they are new?
thanx if you can help
x
Yojdawg, i drive a 2000 mazda etude 160ie. Firstly, theres a continuous squeeky noise coming from front brakes, it gets worse when im braking but stops when im turning right. Secondly, theres a terrible scraching sound from rear brakes when im braking on a downhill slope.
I have an 07' Elantra. Immediately after I got my oil changed this morning, I began hearing the sound of metal dragging on metal around the front left wheel. At first it was only once in a while, but after 10 more miles of driving, it is making the noise the entire time the car is being driven - EXCEPT for when I press the brakes (even lightly). I thought it could be the brake pad/rotor, but why does it only happen when I DON'T push the brakes? Also, my wife needs to drive the car for about 30 minutes tomorrow. Is that really bad?
vincent, if it is something that happens when you arent hitting the brake then it sounds like something could be hung up or needs to be clean or checked out again. make sure all your parts in the correct spots.
Daniel it really all depends what it is. If you took it to a shop that takes your wheels off to check the brakes then there could be a shield or could really be anything that may have been left behind. Does it effect the way the vehicle drives? It is hard to say if its safe or not just going off of what you say though, you would have to look at whats going on down there.
Honda civic 2008. When I'm driving on the freeway and get up to about 65 MPH I hear a whistling sound coming from the left front part of my car, possibly the wheel?!! When I step on the breaks the noise stops, any idea what would cause this? Is it my s? breaks? The sound does come back randomly after a few minutes of driving after I apply the breaks.
could be a wheel bearing, hard to say off hand but I would try and isolate the noise by putting it on jack stands and spinning the wheel
YoJDawg,
Got a 2006 Mitsu Eclipse. Was told needed brakes and rotors for front and then took it back and was told needed for rear too. Got it done. Get the car back, it squeals when braking. Took it back, had to pay to have them spray anti-squeal stuff. They told me to bring it back if it's still doing it. Well, I gave it a couple of weeks. I now notice when going downhill and braking (while going slow, no crazy driving) that I hear a weird sound from the front end - it's not a squeal but, somewhat of a grind sound. Also when going from park to drive and having the brake pressed I hear a quick metal clunk sound - best way to describe it is that it sounds like metal plates hitting for a second. It wasn't making that sound before the brake job and just wondering what it could be and if it could be related. I just put a call into the shop and waiting on a return call. I would like your opinion..
The squealing sound when braking is driving me nuts!! I paid to fix them not to hear them all the time :(
I drive a nissan 370Z & I need help In figuring out why does my beaks start to make a metal screeching/ scratching sound only in the morning when I press on the brakes lightly to leave my driveway. Or when I pull out of the parking lot. But while driving throughout the day, they do not make any noise.
Hi,
I have a nissan almnera tino 2002. Just dicovered the steering vibrates when I press the brake once over 50mph. Was told to change the 2 stabilizer rubber & 2 tie rod ends. Just done that but the vibrating came back just after a day and also it is now veering slightly to the left when the brakes are applied. Went back and now they are saying its the tyres. Rotated the tyres round but still same problem. What could be wrong with the car.
I bought the brand new 2011 Sienna and now it's only 1300 milers on it. The way I break is slowly apply the pressure on pedal and slowly releasing the brake. My brake is not that firm, very light feeling. When it goes about 30%, then I can feel the brake. The noise like metal parts loosing comes in when the vehicle almost stop and start (releasing the brake). If I press the brake harder, I won't hear the noise before stop, but the noise comes when I release the brake slowly. Do you think it's normal? I had the same experience with RAV 4 and the dealer said it was normal because the car was on the lot for a while. BTW, I live in Northeasten of US. Thank you very much.
Question.. I had the rotors replaced on my car 3 months ago.. no excessive breaking.. no hitting a curb etc.. but has a sqeeking sound.. took it to the mechanic who stated that the rotors need to be replaced.. Why would my car need rotors replaced again after 3months???
I have a 2003 Town and Country. 2 months ago While driving i smelled a burning smell and the driver side front brake/tire area was smoking. Let it cool down and went on my way and it was fine never happened again. Then a month ago same thing happened BUT this time it was the back one on driver side. Now today it happened AGAIN BUT this time it was the front passenger side. Why is this happening and why a different brake each time.
Dee: Does it feel like the brakes are locking up? You should not have any smoke or burning during normal use. I would have it inspected at a shop. That could be very dangerous.
Carol the only reason your rotors would need to be replaced if they were too thin to be resurfaced. If you just replaced them and everything is fine then they should not be replaced. I would ask him what the min specs are and what they are currently.
Others, I figured it was too late to answer since it had been a while, let me know if you still need help.
I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500. I have a vibration in the brake pedal when pressing. I had rotors turned on front, with new pads. Vibration is still there. Took it back, they looked at back brakes but said they were fine. Thoughts? Bad Calipers? Back rotors?
.we're the rotors in good specs still? Sounds like a rotor problem
alright, so i have a 2005 ford excursion. i recently had the front pads, and rotors replaced and the back rotors. this was less than 2k miles. well a couple of weeks ago i started noticing a slight vibration coming from the rear right side, and a ton of brake dust on/around the wheel. the vibrations were getting progressively worse to the the point i was going to bring it in to get it looked at. on my way out of my parking lot today, the brakes went straight to the floor, i pumped them a couple times to get some braking power back, and i finally did after about 3-4 pumps going 10-15mph. when i finally got tension in the brakes it started making a horrible clanking/grinding noise. do you have any ideas what this might be? Thanks
Sorry, i had the back pads replaced and not the rotors.
Sounds like maybe a caliper gave out of something in your master cylinder. That would cause you to go to the floor and pump until they got the air out. Also that noise sounds like something came out of place. It could just be one of the pads fell out of the caliper, take a look though. Doesn't sound safe
Hello I have a 1995 Ford Bronco. It has larger than stock tires and a 4" lift on it. I purchased it almost a month ago and when we had it inspected, the front rotors and pads were replaced. My question is about a thunk that I can hear and feel in the brake pedal only when stopping from a slow speed. When driving higher speeds and stopping, I don't hear or feel that and it seems to stop fine. Only when I'm like slowing down in a parking lot or from low speeds do I hear/feel the thunking sound it seems to come more from the rear of the vehicle. Could it be something with the rear brakes?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
It is probably your rear drum brakes. They are usually noisy at low speeds. I would inspect them to make sure they are fine though. There is a lot of stuff going on in there.
Hi YoJDawg. Thanks for all the great info on this hub. Like everyone else here, I too have a problem with my brake. It's a 2005 Toyota Camry LE with about 87,000miles on it. It makes a shrill screeching noise whenever I brake. I thought it might go away if I try to brake really slowly but I always hear the whistling sound just before the car comes to a complete halt. I've had the car checked by a Quicklane mechanic twice and both front and rear rotors polished and I've been told that I have "plenty of brake material." It seemed to have quieted down yesterday (when the front rotors were polished) but now the noise is back. It's very frustrating. Any ideas what the problem could be? Thanks for your help!
what if one side of the rear breaks breaks to fast its (front drive truck)
Frank, it sounds like you probably have bad quality parts. After resurfacing "polishing" the rotors. It should clean up the surface and make them quiet again. If you have bad quality parts then they will glaze and cause that noise. Glazing is when your brakes get a glassy look to them and the surface shouldn't be like glass it should be a little rough because they use friction to brake. Anyways, if cleaning up your rotors isn't working then I recommend going with a better quality rotor and set of pads. It doesn't sound like a safety issue, just an annoyance. Good luck.
Sojo, it sounds like your piston or cylinder, depending if you have disc brakes or drums. If one of those is bad then it could be putting the wrong pressure either too little or too much and causing bad braking. I would get them replace after inspecting them. Wheel cylinders will leak out if you pull back the rubber cover, calipers are a little hard to check,
what if there is smoke coming from the back left wheel?
then it sounds like something is sticking and getting way to hot. I would be careful and take it apart and see where there are burn marks. That can cause your tire to leak/explode of the heat gets too high.
2008 Dodge Caravan my front right tire squeak after driving for 20 to 30 minutes and stops when i press brakes i check brake pads looks ok do i need to change Rotor. Also if I turn right or left it stops as well.
hi i have a 2001 chevy impala and it make a sound like it's scratching something while im driving it has been a day with that noise but when i step on the break sounds goes away and when i make a right turn the sound it;s loudter
Sounds like both of you should get your hubs checked out. If the bearings are bad they will make make sound when driving. They will have excessive play in them if you wiggle them.
So i have an older mercedes. I didn't drive it for two weeks and now it is making a weird moaning noise. But had all the brakes done about a year back. Can letting your car sit for two weeks create a funny sound?
2002 Tahoe. Sometimes I apply the brakes and the pedal pulsates and vibrates and feels it is pushing back agaisnt my foot. There is some difficulty in stopping unless I let off and reapply the brakes quickly. There is a slight noise that accompanies the event (could be described as a popping noise). It just happens every now and then and it is a little scary. Had it to mechanics and when they test drive it the problem has yet to happen.
Danielle, letting your car sit can cause build up of rust and make the brake dust become solid. It shouldn't cause damage or problem, just noise.
Sylvia, does this only happen after a long time of driving ?
I have a 97 Neon and have changed brake pads 4 times since I have owned the car, and Rotors once. The latest pad change was as usual, although it seemed I had not travelled many KM's to warrant a change, but the previous set were cheap...so I got what I paid for. I should note, there were NO problems with my front disc brakes, wear was just at a point I figured better safe than sorry. After I changed the pads, the front left began to not release properly, but ONLY when it was hot outside. The left would drag and smoke. I was told it was the brake caliper, so I changed that. Still the exact same problem occurs, if it is warm outside (over 75 F) the left caliper seems to not release, causing dragging and smoke, if I stop, turn off the car and step the pedal down 3 or 4 times, I can feel the brakes release, start the car and all is good until I apply the brakes, and then the problem starts again. In cooler weather, I have zero issues and all is good. I can't for the life of me figure out what the deal is. Pads, rotor and caliper are new, and it ONLY happens when it is warm outside. Any Ideas?. Thanks Dave
Dave, how is the condition of your fluid? Bad fluid can cause the master cylinder to gunk up certain lines and make one area fail. Check your fluid, flush out of bad. You may need a new master cylinder.
Actually it happened yesterday after I had driven to the store about 6 miles from my home. So I had been driving about 10 minutes.
Sylvia, it almost sounds like warped rotors but the distance seems to short, does it ever happen when cold right when you get going after the car sits?
Ok so we have replaced the brakes and then bleed them to remove air. They work fine for a few mins then loose all pressure?
I have a 91 acura. Im having the same problem as Dave. My car brakes are super hard and car wont accelerate past 10mph. the caliper wouldnt release and the brake pads were worn. I have changed the pads, rotors, and calipers. Yet when i drive it the brakes get hard again. and white smoke starts coming out from the front tires. what could be the problem? the master cylinder?
badenn, when you they loose pressure are you getting air back in the brakes? if so you have leak somewhere
Daniel, sounds like a master problem. Also check your fluid, if it got this hot then you should probably flush out the fluids since now it's probably burned and contaminated
ok thanks. if i fix it and get same results should i check into the brake boosters?
yeah, wouldn't hurt, if you had excessive heat and also just the age, its possible your booster is messed up as well.
No, I don't believe it ever has happened immediately. The quickest ever was the 10 minute/6 mile trip....usually it is on in to the drive.
It really scares me when it happpens. No ABS lights come on and I have been told by mechanics not to do anything becuase exploritory mechanicing will be expensive.
Sylvia, I would have your rotors inspected first, that would be your most obvious problem because when your rotors are warped, the rotor wont have a flat surface to brake on, thus making it feel like its pulsing. If that is fine then I would figure out when it happens and have a technician go on a test driving during the time when it happens.
Yojdawg, i changed the cylinder, it seemed to fixed the problem. Its like new. Thanks a million!
glad i could help
I have a 2wd 2003 chevy Silverado. 151k miles. Just got brand new tires 6 days ago. I bought it about 2 months ago. Dealer told me the brakes & tires need to be replaced. It rode pretty rough- It has 20inch chrome wheels on it & I've had ppl tell me the bigger wheels you have, the rougher the ride..anyways before I got new tires it pulled to the right & now it doesn't. Okay, BRAKES:
I changed the brakes pads month or so ago, bc they squeaked while braking AND "SOMETHING" also squeaks while I drive! It's not a continuous squeak, but more like every two seconds there's a noticeably loud squeaking happening. & the faster I go- the faster the squeaks Sound. (I hope you can understand my horrible representation!!) lol
Anyways, also, when I push the brakes I can feel them "Pulsating" but the tire place checked them & said they were fine. I ALSO hear a Grinding noise in the rearend sometimes. Especially when I put it n reverse! But also when I turn sometimes. Would changing the U-Joints on the drive shaft illuminate the grinding noise?
I have received lots of UNANSWERED questions pertaining to this & lots of "oh it's fine, don't worry about it."
But I'm the kinda person that likes to take care of my vehicles & gets really annoyed with squeaks & grinding lol.
& I'm sure the folks on the road beside me do too.
I love my truck & it's a good & very nice vehicle other than the squeaking when braking & driving & the grinding when in reverse & sometimes when Turning.
Please Help, bc the body shops around here can't help me out & neither can the Grease-Monkey Shade-Tree-Mechanics! Lol
Thank you Bunches!
Ashley.... thats a long comment lol. Anyways, here we go.
Tires, bigger tires/rims yes mean a rougher ride. Getting better shocks though can help make the ride a little smoother if you are interested.
If your brakes are pulsing your rotors could be warped which means they are uneven making braking also not smooth. Your brake pads could be perfectly fine but the rotors could be warped. If it only happens when you brake then it is probably the rotors. You can have them inspected but most places will just tell you to replace/resurface them.
The noise that gets louder the faster and faster you go is that only in the front or rear? It is hard to say what it could be off hand because there are so many things that could make noise: bearings, shields, clips, brackets, etc. The best place to start is getting the location. After that then you isolate when it happens.
Rear end noise, it is possible that your u-joints are bad but does this only happen while braking? or not braking? It could also be a drive shaft or something bad in your differential but again, it needs to be isolated a little better to point you in the right area.
Anyways, i hope i shed some light, without being there to look at it, it is really hard to pin point noises. I would try to find exactly when and where the noise is coming from then get back to me with what you find, I might be able to point you in the right direction. Adios
Ok,
Everyone I've taken it to say the rotors are also fine,
& the squeaking noises come from front & rear, mainly passenger side & sounds from around the wheels & tires.
& in the rearend it's just when I put it n reverse & sometimes turning..regardless if I'm braking or not.
Ugh this is so frustrating.
Thanks so much!
I have a Dodge Neon and I keep having brake problems. Sometimes, when I press them, it's like it goes all the way down and the car won't stop immediately. I have almost hit people at stoplights or when parallel parking or trying to park in general. I have noticed there was a very soft clunking noise coming from the rear right side when I press the brakes.
A month ago, they were doing the same thing then all of a sudden there was a VERY LOUD banging noise while I was driving and the brakes seemed weird. I got it fixed and the guy said some sort of spring (?) had come loose from the back right brake and he fixed it. Before that, I had a leak from my brake line that had to be fixed. Now, it's still doing this weird thing were only sometimes when I press it it doesn't respond right away and the brake pedal feels like it doesn't have enough resistance. I'm tired of getting it "fixed" over and over again, only to have it happen again. What should I do?
Ashley, the rotational sound from the passenger side sounds like it could be a hub which is a bearing that spins with the wheel and can get flat spots making noise. Again, you would have to get it inspected for sure.
Your rear end problem does kinda sound like a ujoint but I would also have it inspected before going all out. Noises aren't easy and sometimes you have to just start throwing parts at it to eliminate other possibilities. Good luck
Jessica, rear drum brakes have a ton of different springs and levers, once one goes bad it's possible that others got damaged. I would have all your hardware inspected for damage. Also check your wheel wheel cylinders shouldn't be leaking and if they are that could cause your software pedal.
I hope I helped somewhat you guys are keeping me busy.
I have a 2004 Dodge 1500 truck w/ 202,000 miles. I pull a trailer frequently with my work. I've been noticing lately a rear vibration in the wheels when braking at highway speeds. I had the rear brake pads and rotors replaced but am still feeling it. Any suggestions what this could be.
Love your brake advice.
I am selling my 2001 toyota corolla and have had some people come by to test drive it. We just had new brakes put in two weeks ago.
One guy came back with the car and it smelled like burning rubber. He said the brakes stopped working all of a sudden. I think he was abusing them by driving really fast and stopping suddenly, numerous times. Fortunately it was just brake glaze. In your opinion, do you think people should be driving a car like this to test the brakes or is this excessive, rough and inappropriate?
Carl, if you just replaced your pads and rotors I would assume it's not a brake problem. Are you sure it's the rear that is vibrating? If so could it be coming from your trailer if it has power brakes. Also what about a brake controller?
Sheena, i wouldn't advise letting people abuse your brakes. It can mess up your brake system and also your tires. Are you with them when it happens? If it happens during normal braking then it's your problem that should be addressed. If it's just abuse then it is them and you lose value on your car when they damage it. Good luck
Hey YoJDawg, thanks. I wasn't with them on the test drive but I will be from now on. It's definitely not from normal braking.
I just got my rear brake pads, rotors and calipers replaced on a Honda Accord 97. However, after a couple of days, I feel pulsation when I brake slowly. Also, the ABS light came on once. What could be wrong? Please help
it sounds like you could have an ABS problem maybe with your module. Does it feel like it is coming from the front or rear? ABS could be causing the calipers to cause them closing at odd rates. Also, if your ABS light is on you should go get it diagnosed since it is a safety issue.
Thanks for the quick response YoJDawg.
I am not sure but when I brake slowly, I can feel as if the brakes are slipping (like a jerk, not sure if this is pulsation).
This started 3 days after I replaced the rear brake pads, calipers and rotors.
The ABS light came on once and has not come on since. I have this issue for the last 4 days.
Well it definitely sounds like your ABS is having some problems. I would get it scanned by a shop, the codes should be saved in the module and hopefully can give you some insight into what is wrong. ABS modules control the way your brakes engage. When they pulse like that it is because it is reading how fast you are going and how fast you are stopping and applying the brakes in the fashion it sees fit. This shouldn't happen under normal braking but more when you slam on the brakes or in wet conditions. But I would get it checked out since that light did come on. Good luck
I have a 2005 chevy malibu Maxx - upon initially applying the brakes I hear a whistling/hissing kind of sound. I know I need to have it looked at by a mechanic, but I'd like to have an idea of what might be going on before hand. thanks!
i have a 1995 ford e150 econoline van and sometimes on the front the brakes seem to get stuck and it makes this awful rattling noise and the abs light stays on i was wondering if you could help me out and tell me what the problem might be thnks
Maggie, if it only happens when you first start driving it is normal, it is just the brakes warming up. If it happens all the time, it sounds like your brakes are either low or just need to be resurfaced because the metal is glazed which causes that noise.
Jessica if your ABS light is coming on then there is a problem with your ABS system. It is hard to say off hand what is going on but it sounds like the hydraulic portion of your ABS system may be engaging incorrectly causing the brakes to lock up and/or apply unevenly
Maggie, if it only happens when you first start driving it is normal, it is just the brakes warming up. If it happens all the time, it sounds like your brakes are either low or just need to be resurfaced because the metal is glazed which causes that noise.
Jessica if your ABS light is coming on then there is a problem with your ABS system. It is hard to say off hand what is going on but it sounds like the hydraulic portion of your ABS system may be engaging incorrectly causing the brakes to lock up and/or apply unevenly
I had the ABS light checked out at the service center who did my rear brakes/rotors/calipers. They say that the signal is coming from the left rear (the one they worked on). But, it seems there is a short somewhere. The signal seems to be fine from the left rear to the point where the wirings enter the car. When they check the signal inside the car they don't get any so they are saying that there is a short in the wiring.
Also, they claim it could take about 6 hrs to take out everything and trace the wiring and some more to put new wirings.
Please advice.
While driving home from work today my breaks started to make a high pitch sqealing noise with a little bit of a grinding noise in there as well. It doesnt go away when breaking, and its just getting louder over time when driving home. Could it be that the breaks are hanging up or are stuck? I stopped by a mechanic shop down the street from me and the guy glanced at the front and back breaks without removing the tires and told me $250 per axle to fix it. I know he's trying to rip me off. Please help
DP, it is possible there is a short in a wire but you don't see that very often, usually it is a bad sensor or connector at the sensor. It is hard to say off hand without looking at it but I would say it is possible that it has a short but without inspecting it, it is hard to say for sure. If you do go with it the fix, i recommend having them show you the old parts they replace to confirm and that they aren't trying to rip you offf.
Brian, it is possible that your pads are metal to metal which would mean you have to replace your pads and rotors. They should at least take the wheels off and show you what the problem is whether it is metal or metal or if it is just glazed and can be resurfaced. Get more info on what is wrong.
I have a 2005 Ford escape , when I turn to the right while braking the and seams to kick in and sounds like the wheel is going to break. Any hints?
I have a 2000 Chevy Cavalier. Yesterday, after returning home, I stopped and a conveinence store. When I got back in the car, my brakes went all the way to the floor. I was able to get it home and immediatly checked brake fluid. I had none. So I filled it again, got back into the car and applied brakes a few times. Brake fluid came out behind the left rear tire. I crawled underneath just to see what I can feel and saw what I think is a brake line rusted out. Master cylinder looks okay and brakes were fine before this. I suspect it's the brake lines, but wanted to know what you think.
Terry, it sounds like you have a bad wheel bearing or something is rubbing when your wheel is turned that direction. You could turn your wheel all the way when it is in park and just look to see if anything is rubbing. IF not, i would get it checked out, wheel bearings going out can actually cause your wheel to fall off but it is very rare.
Kathy, if you saw your brake line rusted out then you need new brake lines. I would inspect all of them to make sure they are all ok, not just the one you saw. Also check your calipers/wheel cylinders for leaks. Get that fixed and make sure your fluid isnt too dirty. Do not drive it until that is fixed, that is very dangerous.
You mentioned that it could be a bad sensor or a bad connector at the sensor. Could the repair shop have damaged the sensor or the connector? And, if it's a short, why does it always complain about the left rear wheel?
Is there something the repair shop could have messed up when they put on the new rotors? They did have problem with one of the parts when they were putting on the new rotors/calipers/brake pads. Could the rotor be bad? They claim that it's in good condition.
It is possible they could have messed it up but unlikely and hard to say without knowing for sure what the problem is. Also if it is a short it would be causing a code at that one sensor randomly when it shorts.
There are plenty of what if this, what if that scenarios but it is too hard to say until you find out what the problem is then find out why.
If you are worried about the level of service you are getting. I recommend getting a second opinion from another shop and seeing what they say. Good luck. What kind of vehicle again ?
1993 Olds 88 - Front driver side wheel gets very hot. Replaced brake pads on driver and passenger side. The old brake pads were in great shape as were both rotors. Then replaced caliper on driver side. But wheel on driver side still gets too hot and smells.
Your master cylinder may be bad. I would get it checked out. It could cause your calipers to close incorrectly. Were your pads and rotors burned ?
It's a Honda Accord 97, 4-cylinder EX model. What I don't understand is why is it always complaining about the left rear. Do the wires come in separately from the left and the right sensors?
And, would the ABS light come ON even if did NOT apply the brakes? If so, then this could be a short, since a bump would cause it to report failure.
And, the biggest issue I have is, the ABS has NEVER kicked in for the last 14 years I have had this car. It's ONLY after I replaced the rotors.
I am not sure if your car has separate sensors fir each wheel. I will have to look it up. But yes if it does then going over bumps like you said could cause it to short. It is curious that it did happen after they replaced the rotors. They may have caused it but I have seen similar situations at the shop I work at and it is hard to explain to the customer that whatever we did, did not cause this new problem. We usually just eat the expense to make the customer happy but it does happen. Anyways, I will see what I can find about what your car came with and get back to you.
Hi, I have a 02 Ford Escape. My brakes started squeaking a while back and sometimes made a rubbing sound when braking slowly. I took it my mechanic, who does all my repair work, and he said my brakes were fine and he didn't notice anything when he drove it. The next day, the squeaking was 10x worse, almost blood curdling. It did this for a few days and now it has stopped but I have horrible rubbing (not grinding) sounds when slowly stopping. If I stop quickly I doesn't do it. When the car is almost to a stop, it almost sounds like grinding then, but just rubbing sounds until it almost stops. Any ideas? I have searched the internet and can find no one with similar problems.
DP, you vehicle does have a sensor at each of the 4 wheels so it is possible there is a problem on on that one wheel. I would get it double checked by another shop if you are having doubts.
karen, it is sometimes normal to have noise depending if your brakes are glazed, cold, hot etc. But if your tech doesn't notice anything you should go on a test drive with him and point out exactly what you are talking about and go from there. It is possible your rotors need to be resurfaced for smooth contact.
Recently, my car has started to make a solid wailing noise. It only does it once or twice a day and goes away after apply the brakes. Usually pulling up to a stop at a light is enough brake time to get the noise to stop. Any ideas what would cause it? My car is an 02 Pontiac Grand Am.
It only does this when you first start out and only braking? If so it could be completely normal. Cars go through different noises as their brakes wear out depending on driving conditions. Unless it is really bad or braking feels different I wouldn't worry about it.
My husband rode with him and they heard it this time. He changed the front brake pads, that didn't stop it, then he changed the rear drums. That stopped it for about a day, then it started again the next day. We are just stumped and the noise is driving me crazy not to mention worrying and embarassing when stopping at a light. Thanks for trying though.
Karen, if they replaced the front pads did they turn the rotors as well? Did they find out what was wrong or are they just throwing parts at it and hope they fix it? That is what i worry, check your invoice and see exactly what and why and let me know
I just called them and sounded like a complete doofus since my husband told me the wrong things. They didn't replace the drums just adjusted them and he didn't ride with them like he told me he would. UGH!! I am going tomorrow to ride with them and figure it out. It's the same guys who have worked on it for the last 3 or 4 years so I trust that they did whatever they felt they needed to do. But I will check the invoice in case. I'll let your know what they end up finding. Thanks for your help.
No problem. It is always good go be on the same page as your shop so problems from misunderstandings don't become a bigger headache than the real problem.
I have a 98 Subaru L, my brakes feel very soft on highway speed, but in local speed they are find just like a new car. do you know why? thank you
Could be air in your brakes that builds up after long periods of not using them on the freeway. Maybe bleed the brakes and if there is air find out why.
I have a 2001 Toyota Camry and have been told that my drums are at bare minimum and next time I will have to replace the drums. Do drums really have to be replaced?
Yes, although you don't have to replace them often. They still wear out and need to be replaced.
Just had master cylinder and pads and rotors and break lines replaced calipers were fine but abs light was coming on before replacing anything which gave me better braking but when light was out brakes would pulsate and needed more stopping distannt since repairing abs light still comes on and when abs light is out still does the pulsing and need more stopping distnce whats wrong
Well if you replaced all that it sounds like a module. Have you taken it to a shop to scan the abs code to see what's wrong ?
I have a 2008 ford edge. When I reverse the car it makes a loud noise. I took it into Firestone (twice). They said the brakes are ok. After a few weeks the noise returned. Every time I reverse I hear that annoying noise. What could it be? Thanks.
Well I have an edge as well and it does the same thing. Does it go away after a little bit ? Usually this is normal and it is annoying. For some reason the Edge does that even when the brakes are ok. I work at the Ford dealer and we do replace the brakes on the rear more than the front. So it is "normal" and there isn't really a fix for it at the moment. Sorry I wasn't more help but I know what you mean exactly.
I have a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe. About a month ago I had to have the rack and pinion replaced. Ever since then, there is a very high pitched squealing coming from the rear when the wheels are turning, but that stops as soon as I brake. I let off the brake and the squealing resumes. The rotors get very hot also. I took it back to the mechanic and he says he cant find anything wrong. The calipers are working fine and the pads and rotors look fine too. This is very frustrating! Do you have any suggestions? Thanks!
Hi Dawg,
right where do i start? i have a mercedes vito 54 plate. about three months ago i had my brake pads and discs changed. since then they have been making noises like a dog howling everytime i turn left or right. the noise stops as soon as i touch the brakes. i have taken it back to the garage about 8 times and they say the problem is sorted everytime, but the next day it is back again! this is driving me nuts and i dont know what i should do next?? hope you can point me in the right direction. thanks
Darren it is hard to say but it may be something that isn't sitting correctly and may move around when you brake. I would keep up on the shop and make them tell you what is doing what and why. That is why you pay them.
Well if it is the rear then it has nothing to do with the rack. It sounds like something is hanging up causing heat. Is your tech saying nothing is wrong or that he can't figure it out. But it sounds like something is catching and rubbing. I would get a second opinion if your tech can't figure it out.
why is there black dust all over my front wheels. my brakes work well, no pulling, no squeaking they work great.. just black dust ..
It is just brake dust. It is normal just ugly. Depending on the type of brakes you put on there may be more or less dust.
any suggestions to a brand of pads that do not do this... never noticed this till recently and it has been many months since my last brake job.
What kind of vehicle? Also AutoZone has some killer brake pads for a good price. They are the duralast cmax brand I believe. They got together with some brake guys to make these pads and they are AutoZone only. At my dealer when we get non Ford vehicles we like to put them on there because they work well and little dust.
any help my car apparently had its brakes done 2 months ago for the mot, but now its makeing a very loud grinding sound while moving and braking any help? what it could be?
Well I would double check the brakes all around. Was it a 4 wheel brake job? Did they resurface everything? If you hear grinding that is really bad and I would get it checked ASAP.
it is a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan and we do not have an Autozone here in Canada. Any suggestions in brand name?
the company that installed them for me tell me they have never had this problem with this brand and are unwilling to change them for free.
Did you go to a dealer or to a local shop? I am not sure about brands up there. Do you have a carquest? I would ask them what brakes they put on and then research the brand.
'08 Corolla. Yesterday after running a bunch of errands around town (starting and stopping) I noticed sort of a creaking or rattling noise that happens with the last few rotations of the tires as I come to a stop. Only does it when the brake pedal is depressed firmly (no noise if I coast or slow down real gradually, and no noise accelerating or at speed).
Had a complete brake job (resurfaced rotors, new pads) in June, took it back to the place this morning. Couldn't get it to make the noise on the way there. Shop couldn't get it to make the noise. They took the wheels off and reinspected all the brake parts and said everything was fine. After a couple more stops, I noticed the noise again on the way home maybe an hour later.
Is it possible this is just from heat and only occurs when I've done a lot of braking in a short period? Or should I be looking for something else like a wheel bearing or CV joint? Thanks for any help.
Being that it only happens after a lot of braking it sounds like just a braking issue that doesn't sound unsafe. I would get it to do it then drive to he shop when it does and tell them to road test right then with you.
2006 Nissan Altima
1:brake pedal vibrates when applied at speeds of 110km on highway
2:Mechanic stated it could be ball joint on driver side due to slight play in wheel when checked on hoist
3:seems to pull a bit to one side at times
4:squeaking sound when brakes applied,rotor and pads replaced three months ago with premium parts
The vibration could very well be a ball joint also could cause glazing on your rotors thus making that noise. If you are comfortable with your tech then I would do what he says.
drove my malibu ls about 1 mile put pressure on brakes went to the floor. no brake fliud in container,pressed brake while brother poured. all leaked out of back attached to a small box. what is this box that my back brake hoes are attacted to?
It sounds like a pressure valve. I would get it replaced and don't drive it if it is leaking.
Hi there, my 2007 Sentra's brakes make a quick, high-pitched squeak the moment I take my foot OFF of the brake, after I've come to a stop. It doesn't happen every time, but most of the time. Any ideas? It's not the same sound as squeaky brakes that need new pads, because that is a sound I'd know instantly and this squeak only lasts 1 second.
It's possible the pins may be dry and need to be lubed up. I would take it apart and see how everything else looks.
Hello. I have a 04 jeep grand Cherokee laredo. I have begun to hear a grinding noise in the rear passenger side! Any ideas as to what this could be? It makes this noise when I am driving forward. The last time I changed the brakes and rotors in the rear was almost 4 years ago! Is it possible it could be that?
I would get them checked if it's been that long.
Thanks for the input. I am amazed at your knowledge!! Your answers are very helpful. Thanks again
No prob. It's fun to help this long
Hi..
I've just notice a screeching sound coming from my 2006 SRX.Sounds like it's coming from the front left side brake.
I notice it after the car has been sitting all day or when it's wet. Does that indicate I need front brakes?
Thanks for your help ~
It could mean you need brakes but the only well to tell is to have them checked out. It sounds like your problem may be build up of dirt, rust, and just being cold. But again, you could need brakes. You would just have to check it out.
My 2002 For Explorer 2WD From the rear i can hear what sounds like grinding while driving and grinding/squeaking while breaking. Is this just my pads worn down and rubbing? Haven't had them changed in a long time. Thanks
If you haven't had them replaced I would get them checked out ASAP. If it is grinding then that is bad and can become real expensive, really fast. Could just be pads, could be more. Most Ford dealers do free inspections so maybe give them a try. They also have a $40 dollar rebate going right now as well.
helo my car's ABS light blinks after i hav changed the front brake disks
helo my car's ABS light blinks after i hav changed the front brake disks
What type of car. Some cars have wear sensors that need to be changed or you may have moved or bumped it. Need more info.
I have a 2007 GMC 3500 Diesel - recently I put the truck in gear and the brakes did not engage. There are enough pads and all the fluids are topped off. There is no apparent leakage. When the truck is in neutral it appears that the brakes are engaging. After playing with the brakes for awhile they will re-engage. Any ideas?
hmmm that is an odd one, it sounds like caliper but i also know some diesels have hydro boosters which could cause this as well. Do they actually not work or does it just feel that way?
they actually do not work - my foot is on the brake and I continue to go either forward or backward. But then after pumping the brakes and going in and out of gear they catch and seem to work just fine.
It sounds like air in the brakes. If you haven't done any work and there are no leaks then something is wrong with the calipers or master cylinder. You could bleed them and see if there is air. That would be a good start.
Hi, I was wondering how hot the rear drums should get after typical use?
Ummmm I don't have a number but they should not smoke or be red
but should they be too hot to touch?
Yes. They should be very hot and can still burn.
I have an F150p/u 2003 model ext cab I put new ball joints,control arms and front n rear brakes. Now I hear a knock sound on the right wheel.. Changed brake hose and caliper but still Knicks!! also the rotor is hard to turn by hand. HELP!!!
It's possible the parking shoes could be messed up. I would take the rotor off and check out the parking brake stuff.
Hi..Please help.. I live in a small town, where unfortunately the mechanics treat women like idiots..I have an 04 Monte Carlo, about 160,000 miles as I am a travel nurse. The last month or so my car seems to be having a shimmy to the right front side and is noticeable with every rotation of tire..It seems worse the slower I drive, but is to the point that it shakes the steering wheel, and I am getting scared to drive with kids in car. Any ideas??
It sounds like a hub. It is what holds your wheel on and if the bearing goes bad in there it will wobble because it will have bad spots in the bearing. Like a ball having flat spots. I would get it checked out because it can become serious. Good luck. Hubs are sometimes expensive so just giving you a heads up.
Dear Mr. Yo J Dawg
Can't commend your priceless work here enough :-)....
Have a Corolla 2003, well maintained (updated break pads, regular services etc.). Of late (last 4 months) notice that when I start the car off, no issue, BUT, after driving just for few minutes, there is a 'beating' noise (like a rubber hammer beating a metal or a metal hammer beating a wood) whenever I break - slowly, normally, any which way. Breaking is fine, as it should be, other than this noise. Garage did check this twice thu far, said that there is 'dust' and cleaned BUT it continued immediately.
QUESTION:
1. Why does this happen?
2. How dangerous it is ? Can I still drive for long distances?
3. How to fix?
Can't appreciate your invaluable thoughts on this enough...that I eagerly await.
Stula
Hey. I just had the front passenger wheel bearing replaced on my 2002 dodge Durango and now I'm hearing a loud screeching noise when the car is in motion and it's loudest while I'm backing out of my drive way. Any suggestions
I am surprised here no one has mentioned anything about mixing brake fluids. Dot 5 shouldn't be mixed with DOT 3 or DOT 4 ever without a full flush and seal replacement. Use DOT 4 if you ride your brakes hard and use DOT 5 if you drive a heavy vehicle in an urban environment or are racing around.
Frankie. I would make sure everything is back in the normal spots. If the vehicle works fine then it is probably just a shield or something rubbing where it shouldn't.
Stuka. Without looking at it, it is hard to say. Is it front or rear? I would go on a drive with someone from your shop and listen to it together. A hammer noise when braking..... Hmmm. You got me on this one. I guess it could be a caliper it is not properly tightened it could "walk" around on the rotor and make some noise but it is a wild guess honestly. Sorry I am not much help. If your shop doesn't help take it to a front end shop that specializes in alignments and brakes.
I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty that has new brake pads on it. I noticed that the brakes got hot and was smelling like they were really hot. Then the other day I noticed again that the brakes were hot but not as hot as the first time I noticed them being hot. What could be wrong with my brakes? could it be that were the new brakes were put on that they are needing to wear down. No brake light has come on. This last time, just the smell of being hot. What could be going on?
It could just be a break in period where left over material and chemicals could just be burning off. I would let it go for a bit and see if it goes away. Brakes get hot but shouldn't be red or smoking. Just keep an eye out and see if it gets better.
What would cause front wheel to feel like it is wobbling when applying brakes. I had someone tell me it was warped rotor and someone else tell me it was a caliper.
It is most likely the rotor. When they warp it's like driving on bumps. It could be more but I doubt it. Could be an easy fix like resurfacing the rotors.
WHEN I PRESS ON THE BRAKES FULLY I HEAR A CREAKIMG NOISE. THOUGHT IT WAS COMING FROM THE CALIPER POSSIBLY BUT EVERYTHING LOOKS GOOD. CAN'T QUITE FIGURE IT OUT.
Is it every time you press it or just like when going slow and barely moving.
JUST WHEN I'M GOING SLOW BARELY MOVING AND COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP
Although you may not like it, it is normal. Most cars will make this noise, it is just the metals getting ready to work. You might be able to get higher end pads and stop it but there is no promise.
ITS A NOISE I'VE NEVER HEARD BEFORE. JUST STARTED ABOUT A MONTH AGO. I CAN HEAR THE CREAKING FROM INSIDE AND OUTSIDE THE CAR(ON ONE SIDE) AND CAN FEEL IT IN THE PEDAL.
Honesty I think it is normal. Many cars do this. You are more than welcome to inspect it but I bet you won't find anything wrong.
THANK YOU
I just bought a 2004 volkswagen gti 45000 miles on it. Sometimes when I begin to accelerate about 10 to 20 mph it makes a light throbbing noise. Is that normal?
Well........ I don't know what a throbbing noise sounds like. Ummmm it's hard to say, could you use a little bit more detail? Where, when, braking, only on acceleration?
If I were to guess I would say maybe something is beginning to spin and at that slower speed it's a bit warped, I don't think it's an alignment because it's only at slower take of speeds. At first I thought it was the brakes, but took it down to where I bought the car and they said it had new brakes. At that time they put a new motor mount on the right side of the car. Your support is appreciated.
I'm sorry YoJDawg I forgot to answer your question it doesn't always happen. Sometimes just when I brake yesterday I noticed it when I take off between 10 and maybe 25 mph. I'm not sure if the cold weather effects it?
It could be a wheel bearing. Basically it would feel like you weren't driving on a round wheel. But if it happens while braking then it could be rotors. Did they measure your rotors or check the rotors for being warped?
I notice it less today, when I went back they told me the brakes were all new and it should last me for I think he said 30,000 miles.
They didn't say whether or not they measured the rotors or checked for being warped. Would the wheel bearing have anything thing connected to changing a support mount on the right? All in all I want to thank you for you service. I think it's very cool what you do.
It's possible they didn't tighten everything. The bearing may not have anything to do with mount but could just be going out. Maybe have them inspect the hubs and linkage for excessive play.
Thanks Dawg, Just got back from the auto shop. They said before they resell traded in vehicles they go over them, one of the things they do is rebalance the tires. Sometimes it cupples (sp). The mechanic told me the noise may go away, but that its safe. It may not go away until I buy new tires but there is still a lot of tread on the original. Does that make sense to you?
Yes. Tires can become out of balanced or cupped easily. Usually it's caused by a bad alignment though so you may want that checked because your tires will wear faster if not aligned properly. I have a tire hub actually. It's kinda old so it may need updating but let know. Hope I helped.
:) On behalf of all your inquiring fans, THANK YOU! You mentioned your "tire hub", is that a place I can go to double check the alignment? Happy Superbowl Weekend!!!
No. It is just info on tires. Your car could have a bad alignment on one tire and still drive straight. It is just something you have to put on the machine and check out.
Ok, thanks. Will do.
After I start my 2001 mitsubishi eclipse and back out of my driveway and start driving I hear a high-pitched screeching that lasts for about a block or two. It doesn't happen when i brake at all after it stops...
Totally normal. It is just your brakes warming up. Just need to wake up before they go normal
Ok thanks a lot i was kind of worried thinking my brakes were scraping against the rotor or something bad... Thank you
You could have them inspected to make sure but off hand it sounds normal. My car does it in the morning too.
my rear wheel locked up and will not go unless i am in reverse. it is a 2003 pontiac montana minivan. this happened after it rained really bad. could this be a brake problem?
Sounds like a brake problem. The parking brake may be stuck. You could go to the back of a drum and try and release the linkage but the rain may have caused it to rust. Sorry cant help you more but you will need to get the wheel off and take a look at the parking brake. Also..... May sound dumb but it happens, make sure the parking brake is off
96 nissan 200 sx. my front brakes keep locking up after they heat up. when i pull over i loosen the bleeder screw and fluid comes squirting out as if the brakes are being pressed. after that it goes away for a few miles before happening again. i replaced the master cylinder, fluid and have made sure the pistons go in and out. i was told maybe the hoses or proportioning valve. ideas?
Sounds like a proportionating valve not pushing correctly
I have a 2005 Honda civic, My Problem started from a bad brake job i did myself caused the caliber to go bad on the passenger front wheel. So I've changed out Both front Rotors,Calibers,Brake Pads & Bled the Line. But even after doing all that, I still have a brake lock on that same front passenger wheel. I re bleed the brake line and done it runs for a few miles. Then the same problem starts. Long story short. What is really wrong with my brake system??? my last option is to replace my Master Cylinder. I have worked on my car this whole time. Please help. mannymorbid@gmail.com Thank you
Well, if everything you did was correct and you got the right parts then you may need a new master. If your brakes lock up it can cause really excessive heat which damages your fluid, seals, and can make your master fail. Check the condition of your fluid and see if it looks or smells burnt. Depending how much you drove them it could have caused damage
YoDawg! Great info in the previous posts!
I have a similar problem as described above. I have an '86 Toyota 4x4 that the brakes recently started grabbing while I drive. Th ebrake pedal becomes very stiff and hard to press. It seems to cause a heavy vibration in the right front tire that starts at 55mph and dissipates at 65 or above. It has recently started locking up when I come to a stop and I have to wait 15-20 minutes for the brakes to release again. I took it to a reputable brake shop and they replaced the power booster and it ran fine. The next day, the problem returned. My gas mileage has dropped dramatically and I can smell the front brakes when this happens. It will not roll freely when in neutral and no brakes applied. I have bled the brakes 4-6 times and have completely replaced the fluid. I plan to take it back to the brake shop but I would appreciate your appraisal of this situation.
Well if you already got a new booster and it is only that one wheel then it sounds like a caliper to me. Just sounds like it is sticking which on an older 4x4 truck it sounds like it is probably way past due. Hopefully that is it. If that doesn't fix it then probably a master cylinder. All of the brake parts with seals could be at risk of your brake fluid got too hot. Make sure it is checked and maybe flush it if it's bad. Good luck.
my nissan sentra 1993 model, has just passed COR last week Wedensday, but since then when i drive on lower gear it sometimes make this really loud bang under the car as if i am hitting something and when i stop to check there is nothing, and also it makes this really bad squeaking sound as if I am suddenly breaking and tyres are screaching on the road but its not that, so i stop to check and there is nothing. and carry on driving and all is fine. What could be causing this especially because it appsed road test just few days ago and the machine did not pick up any faults? Please help, very woried and desperate.
Does it feel like a brake issue or transmission problem? Auto or manual trans? Let me know. It sounds like a trans issue but give me more info. Thanks.
Hi YoJDawg, it is a manual transmition. I am told that the hand brake was overly adjusted which is why it is locking the back wheels and making a loud bang underneath. You see, it failed COR because the handbreak needed to be adjusted and that was done and it passed road test afterwards, but a day after getting it back it started making this loud bang on the road as if i am hitting a big rock and then locks and does not move until I restart it again then it goes, it did it 3 times, the mechanic that worked on it said he might hve re adjusted the handbrake too much. He is working on it now but i am very concern about this as it could cause a major accident. I was lucky when it happened i was driving in a quite suburb with not much cars.
Ahhh. Now I got ya. I would get your parking brake checked out again then. It sounds like it wasn't properly adjusted and now it is grabbing and sticking. You could be causing damage in there if you continue to drive it like that. Hardware kits are cheep but maybe have your mechanic pay for some if he did in fact not adjust it properly.
I got the car back from the mechanic yesterday and drove fine on my way home but this morning, it did the same thing again 5 times right in the middle of the road it makes that loud bang and then locks the back wheels and halt!! when the mechanic worked on it yesterday he said there is nothing wrong with it at all and he checked it. But this morning i almost caused an accident as it did it again. I took it again to him accompanied by my collegue and the machamic was saying he doesn't understand why it is doing this, the only think he did was adjust the hand brake when it failed COR, but he was laughing at me as if i am making this up but luckly the colleague I went with there did test drive the car few days ago and it did happen to him, you see sometimes it happens some times it doesn't. I am so scared for my life and those of the road users and very frustrated that this mechanic can't seem to get to the bottom of this and yet he is so reputable and well known. The worst thing is that i have only been driving for a month and people are laughing at me saying its becuase I am new in this, i must just drive the car and stop fretting, question is why did this not happen before the car was taken to the mechanics? I am a very careful driver not perfect but careful and i know my car.
Does it happen when you hit he brake or just randomly? Also, did it happen before or after you took it to your guy? I would drop it to him and tell him to keep it all day until he finds it.
Yes it happens when i hit the break and when the car is still warming up, like i would start it go on first gear to move off then as I am about to go on second gear it start it. and also it happens. It did not do this at all until I sent it to this mechanic, the lady that I bought this car too says it has never ever done it before. The faults that were picked up by the machine when it was COR'd were as follows: steering wrack needed adjusting; hand break need adjusting; battery to be fitted properly; and exhast must be welded ther was a tiny hole on it. So, it had to be with this mechanic for 2 weeks while he was fixing these things and he had never fixed this car before as i had just bought it I had only had it for 3 and half weeks and it had no faults at all when i was driving it. but, when it got back from this car and after passing the COR (or Road Worthines) it came back with this major fault. Anyway, he kept it the whole day yesterday and i am suppose to be getting it back today, I hope it will be fixed! I am going on school Long Weekend; I hope to be writting back to you on Tuesday and that this car wouldn't have killed me or someone else. "sad"
Well good luck. Hope it works out.
I have a e250 work van Ford I was driving on the highway traffic stopped fast. and I had to stop Fast it has pads on the front and drums on the back I had plenty on pedal it was at the top but the van just did not stop I slammed on the breaks the just kept going could I have a good pedal and not stop the van.can I still have air in the lines or anti lock system not work properly
Did your brakes lock up or just didn't stop like you thought? If you have abs they should not lock up. Anyways, check your brake levels and make sure there are no leaks or air in your system that could cause loss of pressure. It's possible your booster isn't pumping enough but you will have to start with the basics first.
Excellent hub! Is there a general rule of thumb about what color brake fluid should be against a paper dip tester? Was told that I should have flushed brake fluid at least once a year to avoid now having to replace rear wheel cylinder. Also, my gas pedal no longer "feels" the same when I accelerate. Was hit last year driver side rear, and had not known my Nissan Sentra GXE had a hairline fracture in radiator. Had it replaced, but then check engine light came on since then and one mechanic thinks I need new transmission, another thinks its a sensor as the trans fluid doesn't look/smell burned. I know ur hub is mostly break rel, but am really looking to get more understanding about cars. Thanks!
Well, brake fluid should be generally clear without any deposits or dirt or rust. It has a little tan color but mostly clear. It should not smell burnt. As far as flushing goes it really depends on your driving and the condition of the fluid.
Your acceleration problem could be a lot of things honestly. Unless it is shifting weird I wouldn't think it would be transmission problems. It sounds like to me more of a fuel/air sensor not reading correctly the right mixture then not properly accelerating.
Anyways. Let me know of anything else. I shall do what I can.
2005 mercury sable with 171,000 miles. when breaking notice a slight clicking noise as car slows down from rear. Clicking noice seems consistent with the rotation of rear wheel. no real vibration in break pedal. New drums were installed about a week ago. mechanic re-inspected and said breaks were fine but could be strut vibration in worn out boot? anything I need to worry about?
Hmmm. Well off hand I think it's a piece of hardware in the brakes because there are so many little parts. But if your mechanic said it could be something else then it makes me think he already checked the brakes again. It is possible for bad boots and struts to cause vibration but it is hard to pinpoint over the Internet. Can you bounce your car or rock it to make it make the noise ?
I just changed my front brake pads on my 2004 cadallic with some ceramaic pads... Everytime I press on the brakes I hear a scrubbing sound. Is that normal when using new ceramic pads? Or do I need to go back and check my work?
I don't refer ceramic. I find they are noisy depending on the quality. Could be just the pads but it didn't hurt to double check your work.
Hello i have corsa c, with abs ive just had new rear drums and the abs rings wernt much good that was on it can i buy the rings that stick on frm sumwhere?
You should be able to get and rings separate . Have you tried looking online to see what is available. I know on fords they are replaceable for around 20 dollars depending on the vehicle.
what would cause one rear brake to go ( metal touching metal, with no warning )and the other side to still be basically brand new at 20,000 miles and the front breaks still have about 50% wear left?
A bad caliper most likely. It would basically push the pad then never release. I would get it checked out. Good luck
My abs light is always on what should I be looking for to see if something is wrong. And also if I brake hard it will sometimes turn off. Recently I had to break hard and it went off. But the pedal started popping. Like moving my foot. Like a rhythmic tick but moving the pedal. I released the pedal and it stopped.
I have a. 96. Jeep grand Cherokee. When I smash the brakes hard it sound like air is ccoming from the peal
Hi I have a 99 accord. My left rear brakes r getting extreamly hot. To the point where i can smell it. Also my left front caliper leaks fluid from the bottom bolt. Could that just b The o-ring?
Cheis You may have something sticking in the back. I would tear it down and check it out. It's possible it is just a oring but might be better just to replace the bolts.
Jason, does the brake work ok? Or does it go to the floor? It's possible it's just normal. I am not too sure about jeeps. If its not ok then make check to see if there is air in the system.
That pulsing is the ABS working. It applies the pressure automatically. The light being on could be a problem though so I would get it checked out. It could just be a sensor, I hope. But the pulsing is normal although it should only engage during hard braking. Hold the peddle down until you stop. Don't try and pump the brakes. ABS does it all for you. Good luck.
i am having a sound coke from my uppet right hand sude that sounds luke im dragging something or scrapin something metal. starts outta nowhete while pushing on the gas but to make it stop....u have to come to almost a complete stop. u can clearly hear this outside the car too. will sto by itself sometimrs in a few mins or until i stop. im stumped! what could this be?? help. 2003 kia spectra about 160k or a little over. thanks for ur advice. :)
Is it only when you brake? If so then get the brakes looked at. If it's not when you brake then maybe a wheel breaking or heat shield. It's hard to say off hand but first figure out under what circumstance does it happen always.
I have a V6 Camry 1998 and i recently changed my rear brakepads and after the change i started noticing that while driving my steary becomes very light and unstable with the ABS light ON.wHAT DO I DO TO HAVE A STABLE STEARY AND AVOID ONESIDED MOVEMENT.
Well you could have messed up a sensor or something causing the light to come on. The steering sounds like something else. Maybe have you tie rods checked out. Also make sure the wheels are tight.
Hello. I have a 4x4. I have disc brake at the front and drum brakes at the rear. 1 day ago, I changed the front brake pads. That's ALL. Now everytime I hit the brakes a bit harder, the rear wheels just slide.
Before changing the front disk pads, I could hit the brakes really hard and the 4x4 would stop without sliding any wheels.
What could cause this?
Do you have an ABs light on? It sounds like an abs problem but hard to say. Let me know. Thanks.
No, it does not have ABS. It is a year 00 model. I removed some of the brake fluids and it seems to stop sliding. Weird.
Hi I have an 05 Subaru wrx with newly installed front rotors and brake pads. Brakes work fine but at slow speeds when I start braking I can hear a hissing sound. Its driving me nuts
specially after the dealer test drove it and said that coudnt find anything wrong. Any advise will be greatfully appriciated.
Vlad, it could still just be breaking in. Often times that noise is normal and will go away after a bit. How long ago did you install your pads? Also depends on the type of pads. Were the brakes and rotors Subaru or aftermarket?
It is possible that your brake fluid is off but usually you should never have to adjust the fluid unless there is a problem. There are a few things it could be but I don't understand why it would only do it after you changed the front.
I was reversing today and my car just stopped, not shut off, but stopped. It was as though I had applied the brakes. Then I found that I could no longer reverse well--it feels as though the emergency brake is on: the car tries to move but something is holding it back. I am going in to get my brakes done today anyways, but does this sound like a brake problem or something else? The car goes forward fine, and did begin to reverse fine until the problem happened.
@YoJDawg: Thats what I can't understand. I changed the front pads and the next day it started doing that. I removed some fluids. And today it was fine. Tomorrow, I will have a long journey to do where I will need to apply the brakes a lot. Let's see what happens.
It is possible the pads pushed the calipers in farther than usual because they are new causing the fluid to change but it just seems odd. Good luck
It sounds like a transmission problem honestly. Maybe a reverse piston out. Did you notice any hard shifting before this ?
hi, the bolts to my caliper magically came out while i was driving the other day and my brakes locked up. my husband put on a new caliper and new front brake pads. he bleed all four breaks, and checked the lines and the brake fluid, and i still have to put the peddle all the way to the floor to get some kind of brakes. do you know what could be wrong?
thanks,
stacey
Stacey. The caliber pistons could have been damaged on the process of the bolts coming out. You may want to give it a few says to see of it firms up bit if it doesn't then I would look into it further. Do your brakes work correctly besides that ?
before this happened my brakes were going, and we just bought front end brakes and were gonna do them the next day, and i dropped my husband and kids home and ran to the store, then when i was backing up from the parking lot and went to go forward it felt like i hit something but i knew i didnt so i put it in drive and went to drive and it felt like i was dragging someone .. so i got out and looked and nothing, but ive had my brake lock up on an old car, and i figured thats what it was. so my husband came and took of the front passenger side tire and the brake pad was hanging, and there were no bolts in caliper. we replaced it, and the front pads, and i drove it to work yesterday and i barely had brakes, even with the peddle all the way to the floor i was still slowly moving. he bleed all the brakes, im hoping when i take it to my mechanic today its a simple cheap fix. how is it possible for the bolts to just come out?
Stacey. If the bolts aren't tightened to the proper torque then they can slowly rattle and loosen up. When I do brakes, I am always sure to put locktite on the bolts. It's an adhesive that keeps the bolt in there for this exact reason.
My corolla make a loud squeaking noise (like the brake will go out on you- very scary) when the car is sitting in the rain for a long time, but it only makes this loud noise once after that it's fine. Any idea what could cause this?
If your brakes work correctly then it just sounds like they need to be warmed up. Sometimes brakes will collect deposits, especially after it rains, which cause them to make noise until they warm up and the pad can adapt. If you feel it to be a safety concern then take it to a shop to get your brakes checked. Good luck
very good information. easy to understand. well written. Thank you.
Thank you
Hey I have a 2004 Hyundai Sonota and recently i was rearended while i was at a complete stop that was three weeks ago about a week ago i noticed when i turn left my front drivers side made a grinding noise and as soon as i straightened the wheel it was gone then about three days ago it started doing it when i pushed on the breaks as well today when i drove it it made the grinding noise the whole time i was driving. can you tell me what it could be is it my break caliper or rotors? Thanks
If it is making it even when not braking then it is probably not brake related. Is it possible when you were hit that it could have knocked something loose and making it rub? Is it metal sounding or plastic?
it sounds like metal grinding and it stops making the sound when i turn right
If its only when you brake then it's the brakes. Either way have it inspected. Could be multiple things and possibly a safety concern
When I turn to the left, at slow speeds, with brakes pressed slightly I have a groan sound with vibration until I let off the brakes. Any ideas?
If your pads are still good then probably just need to resurface the rotors to get any junk off them. Inspect your brakes though to make sure they are still good.
i had a virbration it my truck, it was when i apply the brakes.so i did the front brake and rotors,but that wasnt it.so now i did the back ones that did it,it dont virbr any more .but the left drum gets hot,the right one do not .why is that
The brakes probably aren't adjusted correctly and may be rubbing while not using them. Drum brakes have an adjuster that pushes the shoes out and in depending on what you want. Check the adjustment.
i just got my rear brakes replaced by my friends husband on my 2000 chevy impala and after he completed the job he did the bleeding process but now when i press the brake everytime i let go it makes a click . in need of your expertise advice ...pleaseee
Is the click coming from the brakes or inside the vehicle. If you don't feel it then it could just be a clip that is maybe out of place and hitting when the brakes engage. Figure where it is coming from then take it apart to inspect
Test Drive 5 years ago
Liked your lesson, YoJDawg. One more thing I wish people would do is just to try braking in a safe place at a safe speed to get a feel for how their car (or SUV) behaves. In fact, I wish this everyday on Hwy 280...